When a storm warning drops, the clock starts. A window that shatters lets wind and rain pour inside, and that trapped pressure is what lifts a roof off its walls. Covering the glass is the cheapest way to stop one small failure from becoming a whole-house one.
This guide walks through boarding up windows on both brick and vinyl-sided homes, the exact tools and fasteners each one needs, and the off-season prep that turns a two-hour scramble into a ten-minute job.
Key Takeaways
- Use exterior-grade CDX plywood at least 5/8 inch (0.625) thick; the Federal Alliance for Safe Homes sets that as the minimum for stopping hurricane debris.
- On brick, wedge the board into the recess with tension clips; on vinyl siding, drive corrosion-resistant lag screws through the board into the wall studs, never the siding.
- Pre-drill your panels and pre-install permanent anchors in the off-season, then label each board so deployment takes minutes, not hours.
- Skip the window tape; it adds no structural protection and turns broken glass into larger, more dangerous shards.
Cost of Boarding Up Windows With Plywood
If you handle the labor yourself, your main expense is materials. A 4×8-foot sheet of exterior-grade plywood (CDX) typically costs between $25 and $50, depending on lumber prices and demand. Marine-grade plywood is stronger but can cost over $100 per sheet.
Fasteners add another $30 to $50 to the total. If you hire out the work, expect roughly $40 to $80 per window in labor. Either way, the cost sits far below the price of replacing shattered windows or drying out water-damaged drywall and floors, which is why plywood is still the go-to last-resort cover.
Plywood Is A Temporary Fix
Boarding up is a last-resort measure, not permanent protection. In Florida’s High-Velocity Hurricane Zone and other strict wind-borne-debris regions, plywood alone does not meet the building code (1); compliant protection means impact-rated windows or tested shutters. Use plywood to get through the next storm, then plan a permanent upgrade.
How to Board Up a Window On a Brick House
Brick homes require a different approach because you cannot easily drill into the exterior facade without causing damage. The most effective method involves fitting the plywood inside the window recess using tension clips.
This method relies on a snug fit, so precise measurements matter.
Safety First
Always wear heavy work gloves and safety goggles. Handling raw plywood and operating saws carries a risk of splinters and debris.
What You’ll Need
- Circular saw.
- Drill.
- Hammer.
- 5/8-inch Exterior-grade Plywood.
- Window clips (Hurricane clips).
- Measuring tape.
- Sawhorses.
- Face mask.
- Safety goggles.
1. Measure the Recess
Grab your tape measure and check the width and height of the window opening. Measure the distance from the inside of the brick mold (the recess) rather than the glass itself. You need the plywood to wedge firmly inside this space.
2. Cut the Plywood
Place your plywood sheet on the sawhorses. Transfer your measurements to the board using a straight edge and a pencil. Subtract 1/4 inch from your total width and height to allow for clearance and swelling from rain.
Use your circular saw to make the cuts. Test the fit immediately to ensure it sits inside the recess without forcing it.
3. Joining Sheets for Large Windows
Standard plywood sheets are 4×8 feet. If you have a large picture window, you may need to join two sheets together.
Lay two sheets side-by-side or end-to-end to cover the full opening. Bridge the seam with a 2×4 piece of lumber (a baton) running the full length of the joint. Secure the baton using 2-inch wood screws spaced every 6 inches along both sides of the seam. This creates a rigid, unified barrier.
4. Install the Tension Clips
Window clips (often called Plylox or hurricane clips) grip the masonry when you push the board into place. They have teeth that bite into the brickwork.
Attach the clips to the vertical edges of your plywood. Space them no more than 24 inches apart. If your window is taller than 4 feet, use at least two clips per side.
No clips on hand? You can instead drill for 4-inch barrel bolts spaced no more than 16 inches apart, seating each bolt in a hole drilled into the brick face itself, never the softer mortar joint.
5. Push into Place
Lift the plywood and press it into the window recess. Push firmly until the board butts up against the window frame. The clips will grip the brick and hold the board against negative wind pressure.
To remove them later, simply push the board further in to release tension or use a pry bar to gently disengage the clips.
How to Board Windows With Vinyl Siding
Vinyl siding hides the structural studs, which makes finding a solid anchor point tricky. Unlike brick, you will mount the plywood on the outside of the frame, overlapping the opening.
What You’ll Need
- Circular saw.
- 2-inch Corrosion-resistant lag screws.
- Drill and drill bits.
- Stud finder.
- Washers.
1. Locate the Framing
You cannot screw plywood into the vinyl trim; it is too flimsy to hold against hurricane winds. You must hit the structural framing underneath.
Use a stud finder to locate the studs on either side of the window. Usually, there is a double stud (King and Jack stud) framing the window opening. The solid wood usually extends 2 to 4 inches beyond the visible window opening.
2. Calculate the Overlap
Measure the window opening and add 8 inches to both the height and the width. This provides a 4-inch overlap on all sides, ensuring your screws hit the framing studs rather than empty air or glass.
3. Drill Pilot Holes
Pre-drilling saves time and prevents the wood from splitting. Mark holes around the perimeter of your plywood sheet. Space holes 12 to 16 inches apart. Keep the holes 2 inches inward from the edge of the sheet.
Drill through the plywood using a bit slightly smaller than your lag screws.
Pro Tip
Mark “Top” and “Bottom” on each sheet. Number them to correspond to specific windows. This makes installation next year much faster.
4. Mount the Plywood
Hold the plywood over the window, centering it so the overlap is equal on all sides. Use a level to keep it straight.
Drive the lag screws through the pilot holes, through the vinyl siding, and into the wood framing. Use washers with your screws; this prevents the screw head from burying itself in the plywood during high winds.
Prep Your Boards Before Storm Season
The difference between a calm setup and a frantic one is work you do on a dry weekend months ahead. Cutting and drilling plywood in a downpour is where mistakes and injuries happen.
Measure and cut a labeled panel for every window now. Mark each one with its location and orientation, for example “Living Room, East, Top,” so there is no guessing later.
For the fastest deploy, install permanent anchors while the weather is clear. Set stainless-steel hanger bolts or masonry anchors into the framing or brick around each opening, spaced about every 16 inches, then drill matching holes in the panels. When a warning comes, you slide each board over its bolts and spin on nuts and washers by hand, cutting a multi-hour job down to minutes.
Store the finished panels flat and dry so they do not warp, and keep the nuts, washers, and a driver in one labeled bin with them.
How to Board Up Windows Permanently
If you are securing a vacant property against trespassers or vandalism, the goal is security rather than wind resistance. You need to make the barrier difficult to remove.
What You’ll Need
- Jigsaw or circular saw.
- Drill with masonry bits (for brick).
- Torx/Star drive deck screws (security screws).
- Silicone sealant.
- 3/4-inch Plywood.
1. Cut to Size
For maximum security, cover the entire opening plus the trim. Measure the window and add 4 to 8 inches to the dimensions. Use thicker 3/4-inch plywood, which is harder to kick in or break.
2. Use Security Screws
Standard Phillips head screws are easy for vandals to remove. Use Torx (star drive) or square-head decking screws. These require specific bits to unscrew, adding a layer of deterrence.
3. Secure the Board
For wood-frame houses, drive screws into the studs every 10 inches around the perimeter.
For brick houses, drill holes into the mortar joints (not the brick face) using a masonry bit. Insert plastic wall anchors and drive the screws into them.
4. Seal the Edges
Apply a bead of silicone sealant around the top and sides of the board. This stops moisture from getting behind the wood, preventing rot and mold growth inside the abandoned structure.
How Do You Board Up a Broken Window?
Broken windows pose an immediate safety risk. Before boarding, you must stabilize the glass.
Wear heavy gloves. Remove loose shards carefully. For cracked panes that are still intact, apply duct tape in a crisscross pattern to hold the pieces together. Once the glass is stabilized, follow the standard boarding procedures above based on your exterior wall type.
Alternatives to Boarding Up Windows
Plywood is the gold standard for emergencies, but it blocks light and looks unsightly. Here are effective alternatives for protection and weatherproofing.
Clear Polycarbonate Sheets
Polycarbonate (Lexan) is lighter and stronger than plywood. It is transparent, allowing daylight into your home during a power outage. Install it using the same lag-screw method used for plywood. It is more expensive upfront but lasts longer and stores easily.
Storm Panels
Aluminum or steel storm panels are corrugated sheets that slide into permanently installed tracks. They are lightweight and stackable. While the initial installation costs $350 to $800 per window, they deploy in minutes when a storm approaches.
Impact-Resistant Windows
Impact windows are the permanent answer. Their laminated glass and reinforced frames are built to take a debris hit and stay in the opening, so there is nothing to set up when a storm is forecast. They cost the most upfront, but they protect year-round, cut outside noise, and satisfy the building code in wind-borne-debris zones where plywood does not.
Emergency Weatherproofing (Not for Security)
If you lack plywood and need to seal a broken window against rain immediately, two quick options help:
- Heavy-duty trash bags: layer two contractor bags and tape them tightly to the window frame with outdoor duct tape.
- Cardboard and plastic: wrap rigid cardboard in plastic sheeting and tape it over the opening.
Note: These methods provide zero protection against wind, debris, or intruders.
FAQs
Why Do People Board up Windows?
People board up windows mainly to stop windborne debris from smashing the glass during hurricanes and severe storms. A broken window lets wind rush inside, and that sudden internal pressure can push a roof off its walls. Boards also deter break-ins, vandalism, and squatters on vacant properties.
How Do You Board a Window From the Outside?
To board a window from the outside, cut exterior-grade 5/8-inch plywood to fit the opening, then anchor it to the structure. On brick, set the board inside the recess and grip it with tension clips. On vinyl or wood siding, cut the board about 8 inches larger than the opening and drive lag screws through it into the wall studs so the wind cannot peel it off.
Can I Use OSB Instead of Plywood for Windows?
Yes, oriented strand board (OSB) works and usually costs less than plywood, but treat it as single-use. OSB soaks up water faster than exterior plywood, so it swells and weakens once it gets rained on. It is fine for short-term or one-storm protection; for boards you want to reuse for years, exterior-grade plywood holds up far better.
What Thickness of Plywood Should You Use for Hurricanes?
Use exterior-grade plywood at least 5/8 inch (0.625 inches) thick for hurricane protection, the minimum the Federal Alliance for Safe Homes recommends (2). Anything thinner can flex or snap when struck by flying debris, and stepping up to 3/4-inch plywood adds strength for large or exposed windows.
Do You Have to Board up Every Window?
Protect every window and glass door you can, not just the ones facing the wind. Storm winds shift direction, and a single failed opening lets pressure build inside that can lift the roof. Skipping windows leaves weak points, so cover the whole envelope; if you run short on material, prioritize the largest and most exposed panes first.
The Last Word on Boarding Windows
Do not wait for the first raindrops to start measuring. Boarding up is real work, and rushing it in the wind is how boards end up loose or cut wrong. Cut and label your panels now, set your permanent anchors while the weather is calm, and store everything dry.
When the next alert sounds, you will bolt up a protected home in a fraction of the time, and you can start planning the impact windows or shutters that end the scramble for good.
