Waking up to a cold shower is a rude start to the day. If your water heater pilot light went out, don’t panic. You usually don’t need a plumber to fix it. Lighting a pilot light is a simple maintenance task you can handle yourself in a few minutes.
We will walk you through finding the pilot, lighting it safely, and troubleshooting why it went out in the first place.
Key Takeaways
- Locate the pilot light behind the access panel or through the glass viewing window at the bottom of the unit.
- Always smell for gas (including near the floor) and wait 10 minutes after turning the knob to “Off” before relighting.
- For modern heaters, use the built-in piezoelectric igniter; for older models, use a long wand lighter.
- Common failure causes include a dirty thermocouple, drafts, or a faulty gas control valve.
Where Is the Pilot Light on My Water Heater?
You need to look at the bottom of the tank to find the pilot light. The exact location depends on the age and style of your unit.
Modern water heaters typically feature a sealed combustion chamber. You cannot remove the door. Instead, look for a small glass viewing window (sight glass) to see the flame.
Older units usually have a removable metal access panel at the base. You simply lift or unscrew this plate to expose the burner and pilot assembly.
How to Light a Water Heater
Safety is your priority here. Before you grab a lighter, get down on your hands and knees. Sniff around the base of the heater. Propane is heavier than air and settles on the floor, while natural gas rises.
If you smell rotten eggs or hear a hissing sound, do not light a match. Leave the house immediately and call your utility company.
Take Note
Natural gas and propane are odorless. Suppliers add mercaptan to the gas to give it that distinct rotten egg smell so you can detect leaks.
What You’ll Need
- Screwdriver (for access panels).
- Flashlight or headlamp.
- Wand lighter (BBQ lighter) or extra-long matches.
Automatic Pilot Light (Piezo Igniter)
Most newer gas water heaters use a piezoelectric spark generator. This is the red or black button that clicks like a grill lighter. You do not need an open flame for these models.
1. Prepare the Valve
Locate the gas control knob on the front of the thermostat box. Turn the knob to the “Off” position. Wait at least five to ten minutes. This allows any residual gas in the combustion chamber to dissipate. Do not skip this step.
2. Set to Pilot
Turn the gas control knob to the “Pilot” position. On some Honeywell valves, you may need to press down slightly to turn it.
3. Ignite the Flame
Hold down the gas control knob (or the separate pilot button, depending on your model). While holding it down, press the igniter button firmly. You should hear a click. Look through the viewing window to see if a blue flame appears.
You may need to click the igniter several times.
4. Heat the Thermocouple
Once the flame is lit, keep holding the knob down for about 60 seconds. The pilot flame needs to heat the thermocouple sensor. If you let go too early, the safety valve will trip and cut the gas.
5. Turn the Gas Valve On
Release the knob. The pilot should stay lit. Turn the knob from “Pilot” to “On.” You will hear a “whoosh” sound as the main burner ignites.
Manual Pilot Light
Older tanks do not have a click-start button. You must apply a flame manually. These units usually have a removable inner and outer access panel.
Top Tip
Use a headlamp or have a helper hold a flashlight. You need both hands free to hold the gas button and the lighter simultaneously.
1. Clear the Chamber
Just like the automatic method, turn the valve to “Off” and wait 10 minutes for gas to clear.
2. Position Your Lighter
Remove the access panels. Locate the pilot tube (usually a small silver tube curving up near the main burner). Turn the knob to “Pilot.”
Safety Note
Avoid standard matchsticks or cigarette lighters. The gas can flare up suddenly. Use a long-reach wand lighter to keep your fingers safe.
3. Light the Pilot
Press and hold the gas control knob down. Immediately apply your flame to the end of the pilot tube. It should light instantly.
4. Finish the Process
Continue holding the knob down for a full minute to warm the thermocouple. Release the knob slowly. If the flame holds, replace the access covers and turn the valve to “On.”
How to Light Hot Water Heater Without Igniter
If you have a modern heater but the red igniter button is broken, you can still light it. You essentially treat it like a manual heater, but it requires navigating the sealed chamber.
- Remove the outer door. Locate the bottom of the sealed combustion chamber.
- Some units have a small port specifically for manual lighting, but many sealed units strictly forbid opening the combustion chamber. Check your owner’s manual first.
- If safe to proceed, turn the knob to “Pilot” and hold it down.
- Insert a long BBQ lighter through the designated lighting opening.
- Ignite the pilot and hold the button for 45 to 60 seconds.
- Remove the lighter, close the port/door immediately, and turn the dial to “On.”
Reasons Why Your Pilot Light Goes Out
If you have to relight your heater every week, you have a deeper issue. Ignoring it could lead to total system failure. Brands like Rheem, Bradford White, and Honeywell sell replacement parts, but you need to diagnose the problem first.
Safety First
Always turn off the main gas supply valve before attempting any repairs or part replacements.
Thermocouple Failure
The thermocouple is a safety device that detects heat. If it doesn’t “feel” the flame, it assumes the fire is out and cuts the gas to prevent a leak.
Broken Thermocouple
These copper rods wear out over time. If the tip is burnt or the line is kinked, it cannot send the electrical signal to the gas valve. They are inexpensive to replace, though some sealed units make access difficult.
Dirty Thermocouple
Sometimes the part is fine, but it is covered in carbon buildup (soot). This insulates the rod, preventing it from getting hot enough. You can clean it with a piece of emery cloth, steel wool, or even the rough texture of a dollar bill. Scrub the tip gently until you see bare metal.
Misaligned Thermocouple
The rod must be engulfed by the blue part of the flame. If it was bumped during cleaning, it might be too far away. You can gently bend the bracket with needle-nose pliers to move the rod back into the flame’s path.
Dirty Pilot Orifice
Dust and dirt can clog the tiny opening where the gas comes out. This results in a weak, yellow flame that isn’t hot enough to trigger the thermocouple. You can try blowing compressed air into the tube to clear it. A product like the Falcon Dust Disposable Cleaning Duster works well here due to the directional nozzle.
Fluctuating Gas Supply
Occasionally, the issue isn’t your equipment. During peak usage times or maintenance work, the gas pressure in the grid can drop. If the pressure drops too low, the pilot starves and goes out. If your neighbors are also having issues, call your utility provider.
Improper Airflow or Drafts
A pilot light that keeps going out on windy days usually indicates a venting issue. A strong downdraft down the chimney can blow the flame out. Ensure the vent cap on your roof is intact and not obstructed by bird nests or debris.
FAQs
Don’t Let the Pilot Light Go Out on You
Relighting a water heater is a basic skill every homeowner should know. It saves you money and gets your hot water running immediately. However, if you find yourself on your knees relighting that flame every few days, stop and investigate.
Whether it is a simple cleaning job or a new thermocouple, fixing the root cause is better than constant maintenance. Stay safe, check for leaks, and enjoy that hot shower.










