Window blinds give you privacy, precise light control, and a clean modern look for a fraction of what made-to-measure curtains cost. The one expense that stings is the fitting fee, which can rival the price of the blinds themselves.
The fix is to hang them yourself. This is a real weekend job, not a specialist trade: if you can read a tape measure and drive a screw, you can do a window in under an hour. Below we cover the whole process, from measuring the recess to snapping the valance into place.
Key Takeaways
- DIY saves the labor fee: Fitting blinds yourself needs only a drill, a level, and a tape measure, so you pay for the blinds and nothing else.
- Inside vs. outside mount: Inside mounts sit in the window recess for a built-in look; outside mounts cover the whole opening and block more side light.
- Measure at three points: For an inside mount, measure the width at the top, middle, and bottom, then use the narrowest figure so the blind never jams.
- Go cordless around young kids: Corded window coverings strangle about nine children under 5 every year, so a cordless lift system is the safe choice.
Is It Easy to Install Blinds Yourself?
Fitting blinds is well within reach for a first-timer, as long as you have the right tools and a little patience. You do not need to pay an installer to do something a tape measure and a drill can handle in an afternoon. Get the measurements right and the rest is mostly holding brackets level and driving a few screws.
The only step that punishes mistakes is measuring, because drilling leaves permanent holes and a blind cut too wide will not fit. Measure carefully, follow the steps below, and this is a job you can own.
Inside vs. Outside Mount: Which Is Best?
Before you buy anything, decide where the blind will sit. You can mount the brackets inside the window frame (against the jamb) or outside on the wall above the window. The choice comes down to how deep your recess is and the look you are after.
As a rough guide, an inside mount needs about 3/4 inch of clear depth just to screw the brackets in, and closer to 3 inches for the headrail to sit fully flush inside the recess. Deeper 2-inch faux wood and wood blinds want at least 1.5 inches. If your recess is shallower than that, or is blocked by a handle or a crank, an outside mount is the better call.
Inside Mounts
Inside mounts sit snugly within the window recess. This is the most popular choice because it looks clean, neat, and built-in.
The main advantage is the look, since the blind does not protrude into the room. You also drill into the inside of the frame, so any holes are hidden if you ever take the blind down later.
Outside Mounts
Outside mounts attach to the wall above the window casing or directly onto the trim. This is the option to pick when your recess is too shallow to hold a bracket.
Outside mounts are also better at blocking light, since they cover the whole opening with no side gaps. If you want to hide unattractive frames, or the frames are a material you cannot drill into cleanly like metal or uPVC, this is your method.
How to Install Window Blinds
Fitting the blind itself is straightforward. Gathering the right tools first makes the job smoother and heads off mistakes. Remember that drilling into walls leaves permanent holes, so measuring twice is non-negotiable.
What You’ll Need
- Power drill.
- Crosshead screwdriver.
- Drill bits (various sizes).
- Wall anchors (if mounting into drywall).
- Pencil.
- Spirit level.
- Tape measure (metal is best for accuracy).
- Step ladder.
Step 1: Measuring for the Perfect Fit
Do not skip or rush this step. The success of your installation depends entirely on accurate numbers.
Measuring for an Outside Mount
Measure the width of the area you want to cover. Aim to let the blind extend 1.5 to 3 inches past the frame on each side for privacy and light control.
Next, measure the height. Start from where the headrail will sit (usually 2 to 3 inches above the frame) down to the sill or the bottom of the casing.
Measuring for an Inside Mount
Place your tape measure inside the window recess. Measure the width at three points: the top, the middle, and the bottom.
Key tip: windows are rarely perfectly square. Use the narrowest of the three widths as your final measurement so the blind will not jam halfway down.
For height, measure top to bottom on the left, center, and right. Use the longest of the three so the blind covers the full glass.
Step 2: Marking and Drilling Brackets
Once your blinds arrive, unbox them and find the mounting brackets. The process differs slightly by mount style.
1. Position the Brackets
For outside mounts: hold the blind against the wall (a helper is handy) so it is centered and level. Mark the ends of the headrail with a pencil, then place the brackets about 0.25 inches inside those marks.
For inside mounts: place the brackets in the top corners of the recess. Keep the front edge of each bracket flush with the wall so the blind does not stick out.
2. Mark the Holes
Hold the bracket firmly in place and mark the screw locations through the holes in the bracket. Repeat on the other side.
3. Drill Pilot Holes
Set the brackets aside and use a drill bit slightly smaller than your screws to drill a pilot hole at each mark. Pilot holes stop wood from splitting and plaster from cracking as the screw goes in.
Note: for an outside mount into drywall with no stud behind the bracket, drill a larger hole and insert wall anchors first so the screws have something to grip.
4. Screw in the Brackets
Line the brackets up with the new holes and drive the screws with your drill or screwdriver until they are tight. Give each bracket a wiggle to confirm it is solid before you hang the blind.
Step 3: Mounting the Headrail
1. Attach Valance Clips
If your blind came with a decorative valance (the strip that hides the mechanism), clip the valance clips onto the front of the headrail before you mount it. Fitting them afterward is much harder.
2. Snap It In
Slide the headrail into the box brackets and close the door on each bracket until it snaps. If your brackets are the spring-loaded clip style, tilt the headrail back and snap the front edge into place.
3. Add the Finishing Touches
Slide the valance into the clips you fitted earlier. If the blind has a tilt wand, hook it onto the mechanism now. Raise, lower, and tilt the blind a few times to check it runs smoothly and hangs level.
Different Types of Window Blinds
The type of blind you pick changes the install slightly, but mostly it sets the feel of the room. Here are the popular options.
Venetian and Mini Blinds
These are the classic horizontal slat blinds. “Mini” just means narrower slats, usually 1 inch or less. Made from aluminum or vinyl, they are affordable, moisture-resistant, and a good fit for bathrooms and kitchens.
Faux Wood Blinds
These copy the look of real wood but are made from a composite PVC. They are heavier than mini blinds, so make sure your wall anchors are up to it. You get a high-end look without the warping risk real wood faces in humid rooms.
Cellular (Honeycomb) Shades
Cellular shades use fabric cells that trap air, which makes them strong insulators against heat and cold. They are light and often cordless, a safe pick for nurseries and homes with pets.
Roman Shades
Roman blinds are fabric that folds into neat pleats as they rise. They soften a room and are good for blocking out sunlight. The install is much like other blinds, though they are often outside-mounted to show off the fabric.
FAQs
The Last Word
Hanging your own blinds is a satisfying job with an immediate visual payoff, and most windows take under an hour once you have the first one down. Whether you go for a clean inside mount or a light-blocking outside mount, careful measuring is the whole secret to a fit that looks bought-in.
Grab your drill, take your time on the numbers, and pick a cordless lift if young children are in the house. Then enjoy the privacy and the fresh look of your new blinds.
