Losing your keys or snapping one off in the barrel is stressful, but drilling the lock out should be your last resort, not your first move. It gets you back inside, yet it permanently wrecks the cylinder, so you walk away needing new hardware.
The trade-off is usually worth it, because a replacement cylinder costs far less than a busted door or frame. The catch is technique. Drill at the wrong spot or angle and you can gouge the door, snap a bit, or jam the mechanism so badly that even a locksmith struggles.
This guide walks you through how to drill out a lock in six steps, how to tell a standard lock from a drill-proof one before you waste a bit, and when to put the drill down and call a pro instead.
Key Takeaways
- Drilling is a last resort: it destroys the cylinder for good, so try picking, bumping, or a spare key first, and confirm you own or have permission to open the lock.
- Check the lock first: standard pin-tumbler locks drill easily, but anti-drill pins, hardened steel inserts, or free-spinning ball bearings mean you should call a locksmith instead.
- Use the right bit: a cobalt or titanium-coated high-speed steel (HSS) bit handles hardened metal; start with a 1/8-inch pilot bit, then step up to 1/4-inch.
- Aim at the shear line: punch a divot just above the keyhole, drill slowly through the pins along the shear line, lubricate often, then turn the plug with a flat-head screwdriver.
Can Your Lock Be Drilled?
Most standard pin-tumbler locks can be drilled; high-security cylinders with anti-drill pins or hardened inserts usually cannot. The type of lock dictates the difficulty and whether you can handle the job yourself.
Standard pin-tumbler locks are generally easy to drill through. High-security cylinders are a different story. They fight back with hardened steel anti-drill pins, steel or carbide inserts, and sometimes free-spinning ball bearings that let your bit skate instead of bite. Independently certified cylinders, such as those carrying a BSI Kitemark three-star rating, are lab-tested against drilling alongside picking, bumping, snapping, and plug extraction, and rated to defeat all five (1). Against one of those, a home drill bit will spin, wander, or snap.
Don't Do This
How to Spot a Drill-Proof Lock First
You can usually tell before you waste a bit. Look for a “hardened” stamp on the lock face, a recognizable high-security brand name, or a certification mark on the cylinder or its packaging. Premium cylinders often sit behind a solid metal escutcheon, and some rotate freely by design. If you meet immediate, unyielding resistance on the first pass, stop. You are almost certainly into a hardened insert, and a locksmith with the right gear is now the cheaper, faster option.
Drilling should be the very last method you reach for, even when you hire the job out. The Master Locksmiths Association advises that drilling is a last resort rather than an opening move, so a locksmith who reaches for a drill on a standard lock before trying non-destructive methods is a well-known overcharging red flag (2).
Things to Double-Check Before Drilling
Try Picking the Lock
If you have a set of picks or even a couple of paperclips, try raking the lock first. This is a non-destructive method. If you cannot feel the pins setting or do not know how to manipulate the tumbler manually, a pick gun might do the trick quickly.
Attempt Lock Bumping
Bumping is a technique developed in the 1970s for locksmiths to disassemble cylinders quickly (3). It works well on older, standard locks.
Insert a “bump key” (a key cut to the lowest depth) about two-thirds into the slot. Lightly tap the key with a hammer while applying slight torque. Try this roughly 20 times. If it doesn’t pop open, move on to the drill.
Secure a Replacement Lock
Once you drill, there is no going back. Ensure you have a replacement cylinder or deadbolt on hand. You do not want to successfully open your front door only to realize you cannot lock it again for the night.
Verify Ownership
If you are a tenant, call your landlord first. They likely have a spare master key. If you own the property, you are clear to proceed. Never drill a lock on a property you do not own without explicit permission.
What You Will Need
You do not need an entire workshop, but you do need specific tools to penetrate metal efficiently.
- Variable-speed power drill: A cordless drill with decent torque is ideal.
- High-speed steel (HSS) drill bits: Use a 1/8-inch bit for the pilot hole and a 1/4-inch bit to finish the job. According to Fine Power Tools’ bit comparison, cobalt bits carry roughly 5 percent to 8 percent cobalt through the entire bit, so they keep an edge on hardened steel once friction heats them up.
- Center punch: This tool marks the metal so your drill bit doesn’t wander.
- Hammer: Required to strike the center punch.
- Flat-head screwdriver: You will use this to turn the mechanism once the pins are gone.
- Lubricant: WD-40 or a synthetic oil helps keep the drill bit cool.
- Safety glasses: Metal shavings will fly; protect your eyes.
How to Drill a Lock in 6 Steps
1. Create a Guide Point
Locate the shear line. This is the line between the inner plug (the part that turns) and the outer cylinder. You want to drill right where the key teeth would push the pins upward.
Place your center punch slightly above the keyhole, directly on the shear line. Strike it firmly with your hammer two or three times to create a divot. This indentation prevents your drill bit from skidding across the face of the lock.
2. Drill a Pilot Hole
Attach the 1/8-inch drill bit to your drill. Align it with your guide point. Apply gentle pressure and start drilling at a slow speed. Your goal is to drill through the pins inside the cylinder. Most locks have five pins, though some have six.
You will feel a distinct “bump” or resistance drop as the bit destroys each pin. Keep the drill level; angling it up or down can damage the door frame.
3. Lubricate and Maintain Pressure
Friction creates heat, which can snap a thin drill bit. Spray lubricant into the hole frequently. Keep the pressure steady but do not lean your entire body weight into it. Let the tool do the work.
4. Switch to a Larger Bit
Once you have drilled through the pins with the small bit, swap it out for the 1/4-inch bit. Re-drill the same hole. This larger bit shreds the remaining pin debris and opens up the cylinder, ensuring the locking mechanism is completely disconnected.
5. Insert the Screwdriver
Clear out any metal filings. Insert the tip of a flat-head screwdriver into the key slot. Turn it just like you would a key. Since you destroyed the pins holding the lock in place, the cylinder should rotate freely.
6. Force the Mechanism (If Necessary)
If the lock still refuses to turn, you may not have drilled deep enough or you might have missed a pin. In this case, switch to a larger 3/4-inch bit or a specialized tubular lock bit to drill out the entire assembly. This is messy but effective.
How to Drill Out a Lock With a Key in It
If a key snapped off inside the cylinder, you can still drill it, but it requires precision.
1. Select the Right Bit
Use a 1/4-inch bit. Position it directly against the broken key fragment or just above it on the shear line if there is room.
2. Drill the Cylinder Only
Drill straight into the plug (the part that turns). Do not drill into the housing (the stationary outer ring). You need to drill deep enough to destroy the pins that are locking the plug to the housing.
3. Clear and Turn
Pull out the drill and remove the debris. You should now be able to insert a screwdriver into the slot (or use the broken key stub if accessible) to turn the mechanism. Once open, you can remove the cylinder and take it to a specialist for replacement.
Can You Drill Out a Master Lock?
Yes, you can drill out a Master Lock padlock, though the technique varies slightly from a door lock. Use a 1/4-inch bit and aim directly through the center of the keyway, not the shear line.
Drilling through the core destroys the mechanism holding the shackle in place. Be aware that Master Locks are often made of laminated steel, which is tough. If the lock fails to open, you have at least permanently disabled it, preventing anyone else from using it.
Do Lock Drilling Templates Help?
Yes, a lock drilling template helps. It is a physical guide that fits over the lock face, showing you exactly where to drill to hit the shear line or the mounting screws.
These templates eliminate guesswork and trial-and-error, significantly speeding up the process. They are specific to lock brands and models, so verify your lock type before purchasing one.
Pro Tips for Drilling Locks
- Lubricate constantly: Use water, oil, or WD-40 to reduce heat and resistance. This prevents your bit from binding or snapping.
- Start slow: Keep the drill on a low-speed setting. This allows you to feel the bit cutting through individual pins.
- Stay straight: If you drill at an angle, you risk boring into the door sash or the lock housing, which makes the lock harder to remove.
- Protect your face: Never blow into the keyhole to clear debris. Metal shards can blow back into your eyes. Use a magnet or a small brush instead.
- Use HSS bits: Standard wood bits will fail immediately. Ensure your bits are rated for metal.
- Use tape for traction: If your bit slips before the pilot hole is established, place a piece of masking tape over the punch mark to give the bit some grip.
FAQs
Let’s Drill Down
Drilling a lock allows you to regain entry without waiting for a locksmith, but it is a destructive method that requires patience. If you rush, you risk damaging the door itself. Always try picking or bumping the lock first; you might save yourself the cost of a new deadbolt.
Before you start, identify your lock type. If you see hardened steel plates or ball bearings, put the drill away and call a pro. If it is a standard tumbler, follow these steps, stay safe, and you will be back inside your home.
