A hammer drill punches its way through masonry, which is why it is the standard tool for concrete. Not everyone owns one, though, and buying a specialized drill for two or three holes rarely makes sense.
The good news is that a standard rotary drill handles light-duty concrete work when you pair it with the right bit and the right technique. Success comes down to a carbide-tipped masonry bit, steady pressure, and a routine for clearing dust and heat.
Below is the full method step by step, plus how to read the concrete you are drilling into and when the job is better handed to a rented rotary hammer.
Key Takeaways
- A standard rotary drill can drill concrete for light-duty jobs, but only with a carbide-tipped masonry bit, never a wood or metal twist bit.
- Start the masonry bit at low speed and lean your body weight in, since a regular drill relies on pressure instead of a hammer drill’s percussion.
- Pull the bit out of the hole every 10 to 15 seconds to clear silica dust, and cool the tip in water so the carbide does not overheat.
- When the bit stalls on hard aggregate, tap the stone with a nail and hammer to shatter it, then keep drilling.
Can You Use a Regular Drill To Drill Into Concrete?
You can absolutely drill into concrete without a hammer drill, provided you are tackling a light-duty task. A standard rotary drill works fine for hanging shelves, installing light fixtures, or mounting abrasive strips. However, if you need to drill dozens of large holes into a structural foundation, a regular drill will struggle.
Success depends on your equipment. Your drill should ideally have variable speed settings and a corded power supply or a high-voltage battery (18V or higher).
When drilling into concrete without the hammering action, you rely entirely on the sharpness of the bit and your own physical pressure. A hammer drill punches the concrete to break it; a regular drill shaves it away. This generates significant heat, so managing speed and friction is the key to avoiding a burnt-out motor.
Can You Drill Into Concrete With a Regular Drill Bit?
No, you cannot use a standard twist bit designed for wood or metal. Standard bits are made of high-speed steel (HSS) or cobalt. Concrete is an abrasive aggregate material that will dull a standard bit in seconds.
You must use masonry drill bits. These bits feature a carbide tip, which is harder than the stones and sand found in concrete mixes. The carbide tip grinds away the material rather than cutting it. Using the wrong bit is the fastest way to ruin your project and your tools.
How To Drill Into Concrete Without a Hammer Drill
This process is slower than using a hammer drill, so patience is essential. Gather these supplies before you begin:
What You Need
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- A face mask and safety goggles.
- A variable-speed rotary drill.
- Carbide-tipped masonry drill bits (various sizes).
- A large nail or center punch.
- A hammer.
- Masking tape.
- A cup of water.
- Canned air or a vacuum (optional).
1. Prioritize Safety
Drilling concrete releases respirable crystalline silica, a fine dust that lodges deep in your lungs and can cause silicosis, an incurable scarring of lung tissue, along with lung cancer and other respiratory disease (1). For a few holes, wear at least a NIOSH-approved N95 respirator; a loose surgical or cloth mask does not filter silica. Step up to a P100 for longer sessions.
Cut the dust at the source by drilling wet. A little water at the hole sharply reduces the airborne silica you breathe in. Concrete chips also fly off without warning, so wraparound safety goggles are non-negotiable.
2. Mark Your Depth
Most DIY anchors require a specific depth. Measure the length of your screw or anchor against the drill bit. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit at that length. This creates a visual flag so you know exactly when to stop drilling.
3. Create a Pilot Divot
Smooth concrete surfaces can cause the drill bit to “wander” or skate across the surface when you start. Take your hammer and the nail (or a center punch) and tap a small divot into the concrete exactly where you want the hole. This gives the drill bit a pocket to sit in.
4. Start Small and Slow
Do not start with your largest drill bit. Begin with a smaller masonry bit (around 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch). Place the tip in the divot and apply firm, steady pressure. Start the drill at a slow speed to establish the hole. High speed at the start generates too much heat and can glaze the concrete, making it harder to drill.
5. Use the “Pumping” Technique
Because a regular drill does not have flutes designed to eject concrete dust as efficiently as a hammer drill, the hole can get clogged. Clogged dust creates friction and heat.
Every 10 to 15 seconds, pull the spinning drill bit slightly out of the hole and push it back in. This “pumping” motion helps clear the dust from the hole.
6. Break the Aggregate
Concrete is a mix of cement, sand, and rocks (aggregate). A rotary drill handles cement well but often stops dead when it hits a hard rock. If you feel the drill stop progressing:
- Stop drilling immediately.
- Insert your nail into the hole.
- Give the nail a few sharp taps with your hammer to shatter the rock.
- Resume drilling.
7. Widen the Hole
Once your pilot hole reaches the desired depth, switch to the final drill bit size required for your anchor. Re-drill the hole. It will be much easier now that the pilot hole has cleared a path for the larger bit.
Tips for Success With a Standard Drill
Drilling masonry without percussive force is a hack, so you need to use every advantage you can get. Use these tips to save your drill motor.
Keep the Bit Cool
Friction is your enemy. Check the temperature of your bit frequently. If it is too hot to touch, it is too hot to drill. Dip the tip of the bit into a cup of water for a few seconds to cool it down. Caution: Do not get the drill motor wet. Keeping the bit cool prevents the carbide tip from melting or cracking.
Don’t Force the Speed
It is tempting to pull the trigger to maximum speed, but this often just spins the bit without cutting. Medium speed with high physical pressure is usually more effective. Listen to the motor; if it sounds like it is whining or struggling, back off the speed.
Check the Concrete Age
Concrete reaches about 90 percent of its designed strength at 28 days, then keeps hardening slowly for months and even years. Its age changes how it drills.
- Fresh Concrete: A slab that is still curing is softer and kinder to a standard drill. For light, non-structural holes you can usually drill after roughly 7 days; hold off on structural anchors until the full 28-day cure the American Concrete Institute recommends.
- Old Concrete: Decades-old mixes are dense and unforgiving. If you are drilling into 50-year-old foundation walls, a regular drill may stall out, and renting a rotary hammer becomes the better call.
Aim for Mortar Joints
If you are drilling into a brick or block wall, try to drill into the mortar lines rather than the brick itself. Mortar is significantly softer than fired brick or concrete block, making the job much faster and easier on your drill.
Does Pouring Water on the Hole Help While Drilling?
Yes, pouring a little water into the hole while drilling helps in two ways. It keeps the masonry bit cool so the carbide tip does not overheat, and it binds the concrete dust into a paste instead of letting fine silica float into the air. The slurry is messier to clean up, but it protects both your bit and your lungs. Keep the water off the drill motor.
Can I Use an Impact Driver for Concrete?
Yes, an impact driver can drive hex-shank masonry bits into concrete for small holes. Its rotational concussion bites a bit better than a plain rotary drill, though it still trails a dedicated hammer drill for speed. Use impact-rated bits only, because the hammering action can crack standard masonry bits, and expect the tool to be loud.
How Long Does It Take to Drill Through Concrete Without a Hammer Drill?
Drilling concrete without a hammer drill takes several times longer than the percussive method. A small 1/4-inch hole runs about 2 to 5 minutes with a standard drill, while a hammer drill clears the same hole in under 30 seconds. Hard aggregate stones in the mix stretch that time further, so plan for patience on anything deeper than a light anchor.
How Long Should Concrete Cure Before You Drill Into It?
For light-duty, non-structural holes, concrete is usually ready to drill after about 7 days of curing. Structural or heavy-duty anchors should wait the full 28 days, the point at which concrete reaches roughly 90 percent of its design strength under American Concrete Institute guidance. Drilling a green slab too early can crack or spall it and weaken how well the anchor holds.
What Speed Should You Set a Regular Drill to for Concrete?
Use a low to medium speed for masonry, not full throttle. High rpm builds heat that glazes the concrete and cooks the carbide tip, and it lets the bit skate before it bites. Start slow to establish the hole, keep steady body-weight pressure on the drill, and let the bit grind rather than spin. If the motor whines or the bit smokes, ease off the trigger.
