Scroll saws are the artists of the workshop. They handle the delicate curves and intricate cuts that jigsaws just can’t touch. But that precision relies entirely on one thing: the blade.
With the right blade, your scroll saw can glide through wood, metal, plastic, and even shell. However, the sheer number of options, pinned, plain end, skip-tooth, spiral, can be overwhelming for beginners.
To help you get the cleanest cuts possible, we have reviewed seven of the best scroll saw blades available today. We selected these picks based on their tooth configuration, material durability, and ability to hold a line.
- High carbon steel
- Two or three times the standard lifespan
- Leading brand
- Pack of 18
- 10, 15 & 18.5 TPI blades
- American made
- Designed for professionals
- 28, 11.5 & 9.5 TPI
- Premium grade steel
- 144-blade set
- Suitable for fine details
- 38 to 59 TPI
Types of Scroll Saw Blades
Before you look at tooth patterns, you need to know how the blade attaches to your specific machine. There are two main categories:
Pinned Blades
Pinned blades feature small cross-pins at each end. These are generally thicker, wider, and better suited for structural cutting or thicker stock.
Because of the pins, they require larger pilot holes if you are doing inside cuts (fretwork). You won’t be able to thread these through tiny, delicate openings.
The upside is convenience. Pinned blades are incredibly easy to install; they simply hook into the blade holder. If you own an older scroll saw, it likely requires this style of blade.
Pinless (Plain End)
Pinless blades, also known as plain end blades, are flat on both ends. They are the standard for modern high-end scroll saws and are essential for detailed work.
Because they lack bulky pins, these blades can be much thinner. This allows them to pass through tiny pilot holes for intricate interior cuts.
The trade-off is the installation process. You have to clamp the ends into the blade holders, which takes a bit more time and dexterity than using pinned blades.
How to Choose a Scroll Saw Blade
At first glance, these blades look like simple strips of metal. Look closer, and you will see distinct differences that drastically change how they cut. Here is what to look for:
Teeth Per Inch (TPI)
The TPI rating tells you the “resolution” of your cut.
High TPI blades have many small teeth packed closely together. They cut slowly but leave a very smooth finish. These are ideal for thin wood, veneer, or metal. However, because they are fine, they can snap if you push too hard.
Low TPI blades have fewer, larger teeth. They chew through material quickly and clear out sawdust efficiently. These are great for thick hardwoods (3/4 inch or more), but they leave a rougher surface that will require sanding.
Blade Tooth Patterns
Standard Blades
These have teeth spaced at equal distances, all pointing down. They are reliable for general-purpose cutting but don’t clear sawdust as well as other types.
Skip-Tooth Blades
These look like standard blades but “skip” every other tooth. The gap allows the blade to clear sawdust efficiently, which keeps the blade cool. They are beginner-friendly and great for preventing burn marks on wood.
Reverse Skip-Tooth Blades
These are a game-changer for plywood. The bottom few teeth point upwards. This cuts the wood on the upstroke, preventing the underside of your workpiece from splintering or tearing out.
Double-Tooth Blade
These feature two teeth, a gap, then two more teeth. They cut slower than skip-tooth blades but leave an incredibly smooth finish. Use these when you want to minimize sanding time.
Spiral Blades
Imagine a blade that is twisted so teeth point in all directions (360 degrees). You don’t have to turn the wood to make a turn; you just push sideways. They are amazing for large pieces where spinning the wood is impossible, but they leave a rough, wide kerf and are hard to control.
Crown-Tooth Blades
Crown-tooth blades have teeth shaped like a crown, cutting on both the up and down strokes. This prevents tear-out on both sides of the wood. You can also mount them either way up, so there is no “wrong” way to install them.
The Best Scroll Saw Blade Brands
You don’t want a blade snapping halfway through a complex project. Sticking to reputable brands ensures consistent steel quality and sharpness.
Bosch
Robert Bosch founded his company in Stuttgart, Germany, back in 1886. They have a massive reputation for engineering excellence (1).
Bosch accessories are widely available at big-box stores. While they might not offer the niche variety of specialist brands, their blades are consistent, durable, and accessible.
Olson Saw
Founded in 1918, Olson is arguably the most famous name specifically for scroll saw blades. They are a go-to for serious hobbyists because they offer every tooth configuration imaginable (2).
From the “PGT” (Precision Ground Tooth) line to standard skip-tooth blades, Olson focuses heavily on blade geometry.
SKIL
SKIL has been a major player in power tools since inventing the circular saw in 1924. While they are best known for their “Skilsaws,” they produce a range of accessories for benchtop tools (3).
Their scroll saw blades are generally aimed at the generalist or DIYer, offering good performance at a value-focused price point.
Product Reviews
You will find plenty of options out there, but we have narrowed it down to the top seven scroll saw blades to help you slice through the noise. We chose these based on durability, tooth configuration, and versatility.
Olson Saw PG49802 Precision Ground Scroll Saw Blade
Best Scroll Saw Blade for Hardwood
The Olson PGT (Precision Ground Tooth) series is widely considered the gold standard for serious scrollers. Unlike stamped blades, these teeth are ground into the metal, making them sharper and more accurate right out of the package.
This specific blade features a reverse-tooth design. The bottom teeth point upward to cut on the upstroke, which prevents the underside of your wood from splintering. This saves you a massive amount of sanding time later.
Made from high-carbon steel, these blades stay sharp roughly three times longer than standard stamped blades. While they cost a little more upfront, the lifespan makes them cheaper in the long run. They are stiff enough to track straight through maple or oak but precise enough for tight turns.
Pros
- Precision ground teeth are razor sharp
- Reverse teeth prevent bottom tear-out
- Lasts longer than standard blades
- Excellent for hardwood
Cons
- More aggressive cut requires practice
Product Specs
| Pack size | 1 |
| Material | Carbon steel |
| Dimensions (inches) | 3.5 x 8.5 x 1 |
| Weight | 0.81 ounces |
| Price | $ |
Our Ratings
Flying Dutchman New Spiral Scroll Saw Blades
Best Pinless Scroll Saw Blade
Flying Dutchman blades are manufactured in Germany and are a favorite among scroll saw artists who do portrait work. This set features spiral blades, which are essentially twisted so they have teeth on all sides.
The major advantage here is 360-degree cutting. You don’t need to spin your workpiece to make a turn; you just push the wood in the direction you want to cut. This is a lifesaver when working on large projects that can’t easily rotate on the table.
This 5-pack offers a variety of TPI (Teeth Per Inch) counts, including 38, 35, and 27 TPI. Keep in mind that spiral blades leave a wider, rougher kerf (cut line) than standard blades, so they aren’t the best choice for perfectly straight geometric cuts.
Pros
- Cuts in any direction (360 degrees)
- High-grade German steel
- Ideal for large workpieces
- Includes varying TPI sizes
Cons
- Leaves a wider, rougher cut
- Harder to control for straight lines
Product Specs
| Pack size | 60 |
| Material | High-grade steel |
| Dimensions (inches) | 9.02 x 5.98 x 0.2 |
| Weight | 4.8 ounces |
| Price | $$ |
Our Ratings
Olson Saw FR43001 Pin End Hobby Scroll Saw Blade
Best Scroll Saw Blade for Beginners
If you are just learning how to use a scroll saw, you want a blade that is forgiving. This Olson pack is a great starting point. These are pinned blades, making them incredibly easy to swap out without fiddling with clamps.
The 15 TPI count combined with a skip-tooth pattern strikes a nice balance. The “skip” gap helps clear out sawdust efficiently, which keeps the blade cool and prevents the wood from burning. This allows you to cut at a slower, more controlled pace.
Note that these are 3-inch blades, which are shorter than the standard 5-inch blades found on most large shop saws. They are designed for smaller hobby saws (like vintage Dremel Motosaws). Always check your machine’s manual for blade length requirements before buying.
Pros
- Easy to install (pinned)
- Skip-tooth design prevents burning
- Forgiving for learners
- Good 6-pack value
Cons
- 3-inch length (check compatibility)
- Not for intricate fretwork
Product Specs
| Pack size | 6 |
| Material | Steel |
| Dimensions (inches) | 1.5 x 8.5 x 1 |
| Weight | 0.3 ounces |
| Price | $ |
Our Ratings
Olson Saw FR49501 Pinned Blade
Best Pinned Scroll Saw Blade
For those with older saws or entry-level machines that require pinned blades, this Olson assortment is the best way to stock up. It comes with 18 blades in three different sizes: 10, 15, and 18.5 TPI.
Having this variety allows you to tackle different materials. Use the 10 TPI blades for thick pine or poplar, and switch to the 18.5 TPI blades for thinner plywood or smoother finishes. The 18.5 TPI option features a skip-tooth pattern to help clear chips.
These are standard 5-inch blades, so they fit the vast majority of pinned-style scroll saws on the market. While pinned blades can’t do tiny inside cuts (because the pin won’t fit through a small drill hole), they are robust and reliable for general woodworking.
Pros
- Versatile variety pack (18 blades)
- Fits most standard pinned saws
- Includes skip-tooth options
- Made in the USA
Cons
- Pins limit interior cut options
- Thicker kerf than pinless blades
Product Specs
| Pack size | 18 |
| Material | Steel |
| Dimensions (inches) | 3.5 x 8.5 x 1 |
| Weight | 0.8 ounces |
| Price | $ |
Our Ratings
Bosch SS5-20 5-Inch Scroll Saw Blade
Best Scroll Saw for Straight Cuts
Bosch brings its industrial expertise to this pack of pinned blades. With 20 teeth per inch (TPI), these are designed for fine cutting. The high tooth count produces a very smooth edge that requires minimal sanding.
Because these are pinned blades, they are naturally a bit thicker and stiffer than pinless varieties. This rigidity is actually a benefit if you struggle to cut straight lines. The blade is less likely to wander or bow, making it easier to follow a straight edge or long curve.
They are capable of cutting plastics and non-ferrous metals (like thin brass or copper sheet), in addition to wood. If you need a reliable workhorse for a pinned-blade machine, this is a solid choice.
Pros
- Stiff blade helps cut straight lines
- Fine finish (20 TPI)
- Cuts non-ferrous metals
- Trusted manufacturer
Cons
- Pinned ends limit detail work
- Slower cutting speed
Product Specs
| Pack size | 20 |
| Material | Steel |
| Dimensions (inches) | 0.13 x 1.81 x 9.88 |
| Weight | 0.7 ounces |
| Price | $ |
Our Ratings
SKIL 80182 Plain End Scroll Saw Blades
Best Scroll Saw Blade for Fine Work
This 36-piece set from SKIL is an economical way to fill your workshop with plain end (pinless) blades. It provides a broad spectrum of tooth counts: 28 TPI for very fine work or metal, 11.5 TPI for general wood, and 9.5 TPI for faster cutting in thicker stock.
Since these are plain end blades, they are compatible with modern scroll saws that use clamp holders. This style allows for much finer fretwork than pinned blades.
However, be aware that these are generally thinner and more brittle than the premium Olson or Flying Dutchman blades. They are excellent for the price, but you might break a few as you learn the proper feed rate. The 28 TPI blades are particularly delicate but yield an almost polished finish.
Pros
- Massive 36-blade set
- Great range of TPI (9.5 to 28)
- Plain ends for detailed fretwork
- Budget-friendly
Cons
- Not as durable as premium brands
- High TPI blades snap easily
Product Specs
| Pack size | 36 |
| Material | Steel |
| Dimensions (inches) | 9.02 x 3.5 x 0.12 |
| Weight | 0.7 ounces |
| Price | $ |
Our Ratings
SE 144-Piece Jeweler’s Piercing Saw Blades
Best Scroll Saw Blade for Metal
It is important to clarify what this product is: these are jeweler’s piercing blades. They are primarily designed for manual hand frames (coping saws or jeweler’s saws) rather than electric scroll saws. However, advanced users with electric saws that have specialized small-blade clamps often use these for extreme detail work.
The set includes 144 blades, which is an insane value. They range from extremely fine (size 1/0) to slightly coarser sizes. These are the blades you need if you are cutting silver, gold, copper, or intricate inlays in wood.
Because they are so fine, they break frequently, that is just the nature of the beast. That is also why they are sold in such large quantities. If you are doing standard woodworking, skip these. But if you are making jewelry or miniature models, this bulk pack is unbeatable.
Pros
- Incredible value (144 blades)
- Ultra-fine for jewelry work
- Cuts precious metals effectively
- Smooth finish
Cons
- Mainly for hand frames
- Requires adapters for many electric saws
- Very fragile
Product Specs
| Pack size | 144 |
| Material | Steel |
| Dimensions (inches) | 15.8 x 9.5 x 14.9 |
| Weight | 0.8 ounces |
| Price | $ |
Our Ratings
| Product | Best | Pack size | Material | Dimensions (inch) | Weight |
| Olson Saw PG49802 Precision Ground Blade | Hardwood | 1 | Carbon steel | 3.5 x 8.5 x 1 | 0.81 oz |
| Flying Dutchman New Spiral Blade | Pinless | 60 | High-grade steel | 9.02 x 5.98 x 0.2 | 4.8 oz |
| Olson Saw FR43001 Pin End Hobby Blade | Beginners | 6 | Steel | 1.5 x 8.5 x 1 | 0.3 oz |
| Olson Saw FR49501 Pinned Blade | Pinned | 18 | Steel | 3.5 x 8.5 x 1 | 0.8 oz |
| Bosch SS5-20 Scroll Saw Blade | Straight Cuts | 20 | Steel | 0.13 x 1.81 x 9.88 | 0.7 oz |
| SKIL 80182 Plain End Blade | Fine Work | 36 | Steel | 9.02 x 3.5 x 0.12 | 0.7 oz |
| SE 144-Piece Jeweler’s Piercing Blade | Metal | 144 | Steel | 15.8 x 9.5 x 14.9 | 0.8 oz |
FAQs
How to Install Scroll Saw Blades
- Unplug the scroll saw for safety.
- Flip the tension lever to release the blade tension.
- Loosen the thumbscrews or clamps on the upper and lower arms.
- Remove the old blade.
- Insert the new blade (teeth pointing down and forward).
- Tighten the clamps (for pinless) or hook the pins (for pinned).
- Re-apply tension until the blade is taut.
- Plug in the saw and do a quick test cut on scrap wood.
Why Should I Change My Scroll Saw Blade?
Scroll saw blades are consumables. As they dull, you have to push the wood harder to get it to cut. This friction creates heat, which burns your wood and weakens the blade metal.
Using a dull blade actually increases the risk of accidents. Because you are pushing harder, if the blade snaps, your hand is more likely to jerk forward toward the mechanism. A sharp blade cuts with minimal pressure, giving you better control and a cleaner finish.
Why Do My Scroll Saw Blades Keep Breaking?
Blade breakage is usually caused by three things: tension, feed rate, or heat.
If the tension is too loose, the blade flexes and snaps. If it’s too tight, it pulls apart. If you feed the wood too fast, you are forcing the blade backward, which snaps it. Finally, if you are cutting thick hardwood, the heat buildup can make the metal brittle. Try using a skip-tooth blade or applying a layer of clear packaging tape over your wood to lubricate the cut.
How Tight Should Scroll Saw Blades Be?
The “pluck test” is the gold standard for tensioning. Install the blade and pluck it like a guitar string. You want to hear a clear, high-pitched “ping” or musical note.
If you hear a dull thud, it’s too loose. If you feel like the tension lever is about to snap when you close it, it’s too tight. It takes practice, but your ears are the best tool for this.
Which Way Do the Blades Go on a Scroll Saw?
The golden rule is: Teeth Down, Teeth Out.
The teeth should point downward so they cut on the downstroke, holding the wood firmly against the table. If they point up, the saw will lift the wood and slam it down repeatedly. The teeth should also face forward (out), toward you. Run your finger lightly down the blade; it should feel smooth going up and catch on your skin going down.
How Long Do Scroll Saw Blades Last?
Expect a scroll saw blade to last anywhere from 15 to 45 minutes of continuous cutting time. This varies wildly based on the material. Cutting soft pine? It might last an hour. Cutting 1-inch thick oak or thin metal? It might only last 10 minutes.
Don’t try to extend the life of a dull blade. They are cheap; just swap it out as soon as you feel resistance.
How Do You Stop a Scroll Saw Blade From Wandering?
Blade wander usually happens because the blade is dull or the tension is too low. If the blade is loose, it will follow the grain of the wood rather than your line.
Increase the tension slightly and slow down your feed rate. Let the tool do the work. Also, check that your blade is square to the table. If the blade is slightly tilted, it will drift to one side during the cut.
What Is the Thickest Wood You Can Cut with a Scroll Saw?
Most scroll saws have a maximum cutting depth of about 2 inches. However, cutting 2-inch hardwood is very slow going.
For wood up to 1 inch thick, use a blade with fewer teeth (around #5 to #7 sizes). For wood approaching 2 inches, you need a coarse blade (size #9 or higher) with a low TPI count to clear the massive amount of sawdust being generated.
What Do the Scroll Saw Blade Numbers Mean?
Scroll saw blades use a universal numbering system, typically ranging from #2/0 (finest) to #12 (coarsest).
A #2/0 or #0 blade is tiny, used for jewelry or veneer. A #5 or #7 blade is the “standard” size for general 3/4-inch wood cutting. A #9 or #12 blade is heavy-duty for thick stock. As the number goes up, the blade gets thicker and wider, and the TPI usually goes down.
Can I Use Lubricant on Scroll Saw Blades?
Yes, lubricating the blade can extend its life and prevent burning, especially in hardwoods. However, you don’t want to use liquid oil that stains the wood.
The best trick is to cover your wood pattern with clear packing tape. The adhesive on the tape lubricates the blade as it cuts through, keeping the metal cool and preventing pitch buildup.
