How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet: 9 Easy Steps

Swapping out a crusty old fixture for a shiny new faucet is one of the fastest ways to modernize your kitchen. While it looks like a heavy-duty plumbing job, it is actually a manageable DIY project that can save you a significant amount of cash on labor costs.

You do not need a professional certification to pull this off. With the right tools and a little patience, you can get the job done in an afternoon.

We put together this step-by-step guide to help you remove the old hardware and install your new kitchen faucet without the headache.

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Before You Start

Replacing a kitchen faucet is straightforward, but you need to prepare. You want to avoid realizing you are missing a specific washer or tool halfway through the job with the water turned off.

Step 1: Gather Your Tools

Make sure you have these items within reach before you crawl under the sink:

• Replacement faucet
• Basin wrench (essential for tight spaces)
• Adjustable wrench
• Flashlight or headlamp
• New supply lines (if not included with the faucet)
• Old towels or rags
• Putty knife
• Small bucket or shallow bowl
• Safety glasses

Step 2: Check the Manufacturer Instructions

Every brand is slightly different. While the general mechanics are the same, the specific washers, locking nuts, and order of operations vary between Moen, Delta, and Kohler.

Always defer to the manual included in your box. If you tossed it, look up the model number online to find a PDF version.

Step 3: Clear the Cabinet

You need room to work. Remove all cleaning supplies, sponges, and trash cans from the cabinet under the sink.

This creates space for you to lay on your back and reach the plumbing. It is also a great excuse to declutter the area; just keep an eye out for spiders.

How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet

Once your tools are ready and the cabinet is empty, you can start the heavy lifting.

Follow these steps to swap out your fixture:

Step 1: Turn Off Supply Valves

You must cut the water flow before detaching anything. Locate the hot and cold valves under the sink and turn them clockwise until they stop.

Once closed, open the faucet handles above the sink to drain remaining pressure. If water continues to drip after a minute, your valves might be faulty. In that case, you may need to shut off the main water to the house or call a plumber to replace the valves.

If the flow stops, disconnect the supply lines from the valves. Place a bowl underneath to catch the small amount of water trapped in the hoses. Use your basin wrench or adjustable wrench to turn the nuts counter-clockwise.

Step 2: Light the Area

Visibility under a sink is notoriously poor. Set up a work light or wear a headlamp. Seeing exactly which nut you are turning prevents you from stripping threads or damaging the plumbing.

Step 3: Remove the Old Faucet

This is often the hardest part due to corrosion. Use a basin wrench to reach up behind the sink basin and locate the mounting nuts holding the faucet in place.

Turn the nuts counter-clockwise. If they are plastic, try turning them by hand first. If metal nuts are rusted shut, apply a penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes before trying again.

Once the nuts are off, go above the sink. If the faucet feels stuck, the gasket or old putty may have bonded to the sink deck. Gently slide a putty knife under the rim to break the seal. Lift the faucet out and pull the hoses through the hole.

Step 4: Clean the Mounting Surface

Your old faucet likely left behind a ring of grime, hard water deposits, or dried putty. Scrape this off with your putty knife and wipe the area clean with a rag and household cleaner.

You need a smooth, clean surface to ensure the new faucet seals tightly against the sink.

Step 5: Install the New Faucet

Feed the new supply lines and shank through the hole(s) in the sink. If your new faucet includes a plastic gasket or trim ring, ensure it is positioned correctly at the base of the faucet.

From underneath, slide the washer and mounting nut onto the shank. Tighten the nut by hand until it is snug against the underside of the sink, then give it a final tighten with your basin wrench.

Note: Do not overtighten. This can crack the nut or damage the faucet body.

Step 6: Connect the Supply Lines

Connect the corresponding supply lines to the shut-off valves. Usually, the hot water is on the left and cold is on the right.

Hand-tighten the nuts onto the valves, then use an adjustable wrench to finish the job. Give it about a quarter-turn past hand-tight.

Step 7: Install the Weight (Pull-Down Models)

If your faucet has a pull-down sprayer, you need to install the counterweight on the sprayer hose. This weight pulls the hose back into the spout after you use it.

Check the instructions for the exact placement. It usually clips onto the hose loop to ensure it moves freely without catching on drain pipes.

Step 8: Flush the System

New faucets can contain manufacturing debris that clogs the aerator.

• Remove the aerator: Unscrew the tip of the spout (the aerator) and set it aside.
• Turn on the water: Slowly open the hot and cold supply valves under the sink.
• Run the tap: Turn the faucet handle on full blast. Let the water run for 1 to 2 minutes to flush out any sediment.
• Reassemble: Turn the faucet off, screw the aerator back on, and you are done.

Step 9: Check for Leaks

With the water running, use a flashlight to inspect all connections under the sink. Run a dry paper towel over the supply lines and valves. If the paper towel picks up any moisture, you have a small leak. Tighten the connection slightly and check again.

How to Measure for a New Faucet

Buying the wrong size faucet is a common mistake. You need to ensure the new unit fits your sink configuration and clears any cabinets.

1. Count the Holes

Look at your sink deck. How many holes are there?

• 1 Hole: Ideal for single-handle faucets.
• 2 Holes: Usually one for the faucet and one for an accessory like a soap dispenser or side sprayer.
• 3 Holes: Standard for double-handle faucets or a single-handle faucet with a deck plate.
• 4 Holes: Accommodates a two-handle faucet plus a side sprayer.

If you buy a single-hole faucet but have three holes in your sink, you must use the included deck plate to cover the gaps.

2. Check Clearances

Measure the distance from the faucet hole to the wall or backsplash. Ensure the handle of your new faucet has enough room to rotate fully backward without hitting the wall.

Also, measure the height. If you have a shelf or cabinet directly above the sink, a high-arc “gooseneck” faucet might not fit.

3. Spout Reach

Measure the distance from the mounting hole to the center of the sink bowl. You want the water stream to hit near the drain. If the spout reach is too short, you will struggle to wash large pots; if it is too long, it might splash water onto your shirt.

What Is Plumber’s Putty?

Plumber’s putty is a clay-like compound used to create a watertight seal between the faucet and the sink deck. It stays pliable for a long time, allowing for a tight seal that does not crack ⁽¹⁾.

Do You Need It?

Not always. Most modern faucets come with a rubber or plastic gasket that sits at the base. If your faucet has this gasket, you do not need plumber’s putty. In fact, using putty with a gasket can prevent it from sealing correctly.

Warning: Do not use plumber’s putty on porous materials like granite, marble, or composite stone. The oils in the putty can stain the stone permanently. In these cases, use a silicone sealant specifically designed for stone.

FAQs

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In Conclusion

Installing your own kitchen faucet is a satisfying weekend project that instantly boosts your kitchen’s appeal. By taking the time to measure correctly and flush the lines thoroughly, you ensure your new fixture will run smoothly for years to come. Grab your wrench and get to work!