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Storm Door Measurements: Height, Width & Mounting Depth

Updated
Measure twice, buy once, and skip the heavy return trip.

A storm door adds security, blocks wind and rain, and pulls natural light into a dark entryway. It only helps if it actually fits, though, so the first job is learning how to measure for a storm door before you ever load one into the car.

Get one number wrong and you end up with a heavy slab that will not sit in the opening, plus an unplanned trip back to the return counter.

This guide covers the four measurements that decide the fit, how to read a standard size chart, and the mistakes that catch most people out.

Key Takeaways

  • Check for obstructions first: Look for door handles, doorbell buttons, light fixtures, railings, and porch pillars that could block the frame or stop the door from swinging open.
  • Measure the height in three spots: Measure from the threshold to the underside of the top exterior trim on the left, center, and right, then use the shortest number.
  • Measure the width in three spots: Measure between the inside faces of the exterior trim at the top, middle, and bottom, then use the narrowest number.
  • Confirm the mounting surface: The exterior trim (brickmould) needs a flat mounting area at least 1 inch wide and 1 inch deep, set at a 90-degree angle.


How to Measure for a Storm Door

Start by checking for obstructions. Pillars, mailboxes, and overgrown foliage can all stop a door from swinging open fully, and even the thickness of your house numbers or a bulky doorbell can crowd the frame during installation.

Next, decide the handing of the door, which just means the side the hinges sit on. In most cases you want the storm door to hinge on the same side as your main entry door, so the two swing open together. If an obstruction blocks that side, move the hinges to the other side instead.

Take a close look at your main entry door handle too. A large decorative handle set can strike the glass or screen of the storm door when either one opens. You may need to extend the storm door frame outward with a spacer, or choose a handle with a lower profile.

Here is an at-a-glance list of common obstructions to watch for:

  • Door handles (measure how far they stick out).
  • Pillars or columns.
  • Porch railings.
  • Mailboxes.
  • Plants or bushes.
  • House numbers.
  • Doorbells.
  • Outdoor light fixtures.

One To Watch

Always choose the hinge side with the fewest obstacles so the door can swing open fully.

What You’ll Need

  • Tape measure.
  • Pencil.
  • Notepad or paper.

1. Measure the Height

Measure the height of the opening from the top of the metal threshold (the plate you step over) up to the underside of the header, which is the top piece of exterior trim.

Do this three times: once on the left, once in the middle, and once on the right. Ideally the numbers match. If they do not, use the shortest measurement as your guide, since few openings are perfectly square and the door has to clear the tightest point. Most standard storm doors fit openings between 80 and 81 inches high. Write the number down right away.

2. Measure the Width

Measure the width of the opening between the inside faces of the exterior trim (often called the brickmould), from the left side across to the right.

Measure at the top, middle, and bottom of the frame. As with the height, use the narrowest width as your guide. Width is the number people get wrong most often, so measure the opening itself, never the old door slab, which always sits smaller than the space around it.

3. Check the Mounting Surface Depth

Most storm doors mount directly onto the face of the exterior trim (brickmould), so you need enough flat surface to attach the mounting rails.

Measure the width of the face of your trim. As a rule, you need a flat mounting area at least 1 inch wide and 1 inch deep, set at a 90-degree angle (1). If your trim is decorative, curved, or too narrow, plan to add a mounting strip or shims to build a flat surface. Hinge-side shims are often needed to square up an out-of-true opening, and they do not come in the box, so a paint stir stick or a wooden yardstick works in a pinch.

4. Estimate the Size

Door sizes are always written as Width x Height. Pair your narrowest width with your shortest height to land on a size.

For example, a 36-inch width and an 80-inch height points you to a 36×80 storm door. If your numbers fall slightly outside the standard ranges, most installation kits include adjustment rails (Z-bars) that absorb the small gaps.

Top Tip

Measure twice, buy once. One wrong number on the notepad turns into a heavy return and a wasted afternoon.

Standard Storm Door Size Chart

Manufacturers lean on standard sizes because they are cheaper to mass-produce. If your home was built in the last 30 to 40 years, the odds are in your favor.

Your opening will probably fall between 30 and 36 inches wide and 80 to 81 inches high. Most standard doors come 32 or 36 inches wide, and some brands add 30 and 34-inch options. If your measurements line up with the chart below, you can grab a door off the shelf at most home improvement stores. A custom size usually means a higher price tag.

The chart below lists standard door fit ranges from major brands like Andersen, EMCO, and Larson.

Standard Size Width Range 30 inches 32 inches 34 inches 36 inches Standard Door Height Range
Andersen 3000 and 4000 storm door (Easy Install System) 29.88 to 30.38 inches 31.88 to 32.38 inches 33.88 to 34.38 inches 35.88 to 36.38 inches 80 to 80.88 inches
Andersen 3000 TruEase, 2500, and 200 series (excluding Forever®) 29.75 to 30.38 inches 31.75 to 32.38 inches 33.75 to 34.38 inches 35.75 to 36.38 inches 80 to 80.88 inches
Larson (No Shim Required) 29.88 to 30 inches 31.88 to 32 inches 33.88 to 34 inches 35.88 to 36 inches 80 to 81 inches
Larson (Shim Required) 30.88 to 31.17 inches 32.17 to 32.88 inches 34.17 to 34.88 inches 36.17 to 36.88 inches 74.5 to 75.5 inches

Note that a “36-inch door” isn’t exactly 36 inches wide; it is built to fit an opening of roughly 36 inches, and the adjustment rails fill whatever gap is left.

Custom Size Storm Doors

Sometimes standard just does not work. If you live in an older historic home with unusually tall doors, or a mobile home with a narrow 30 or 32-inch entry, you may need a custom order.

Most major hardware stores can order custom sizes from manufacturers like Larson or Andersen. You will need to hand the associate your exact measurements, and you should expect a lead time of several weeks and a higher price point.

FAQs

What Is the Difference Between a Storm Door and a Screen Door?

A storm door is a heavier exterior door with glass panels that seals your entryway against wind, rain, and cold, while a screen door is a light mesh frame that only keeps bugs out and lets air through. Many storm doors include a retractable or swappable screen, so one door covers both jobs across the seasons. A plain screen door adds no seal or insulation.

Should You Paint a Storm Door?

Yes, you can paint a storm door, but use a paint made for metal or vinyl exteriors, such as Zinsser Exterior White, and clean and lightly scuff the surface first so it bonds. Painting a brand-new door can void the manufacturer’s warranty, so read the fine print before you pick up a brush.

Should a Storm Door Match Your Trim or Door Color?

Either look works, so match whichever you prefer. Painting the storm door the same color as the exterior trim (often white) makes the frame recede, while matching your front door color reads as one solid unit. There are no hard rules here, so go with whatever suits the style of your house.

How Much More Does a Custom Size Storm Door Cost?

A custom-size storm door costs noticeably more than a standard stock model. A standard door usually runs about $150 to $400, while a custom order can climb from roughly $800 to more than $1,500 depending on the glass style and finish. You also wait longer, since custom doors are built to order over several weeks.

Do I Measure the Door or the Opening?

Measure the opening, not your existing door. A storm door is sized to the door opening, meaning the space framed by the exterior trim, and the old door always sits smaller than that space, so measuring the door itself leaves you with a storm door that is too small. Take the width and height of the opening in three spots each and use the smallest number from each set.

What if My Measurements Fall Between Two Standard Sizes?

Round to the nearest standard size the opening can accept and let the adjustment rails close the gap. Most storm door kits ship with expander or Z-bar rails on the hinge and latch sides that cover an inch or so of variance, and hinge-side shims fine-tune the fit from there. If the opening sits well outside the standard ranges, order a custom size instead.

How Do I Know Which Way My Storm Door Should Swing?

Face the door from outside and note which side your main entry door hinges on; your storm door should hinge on that same side so the two open together. Installers call this hinging left or hinging right, always as viewed from outside. If a light fixture, mailbox, or railing sits on that side, hinge the storm door on the opposite side instead.


Brewing Up a Storm

Getting the measurements right is most of the job with a storm door. Once your height, width, and mounting depth are confirmed and written down, choosing the actual door is the easy part.

Whether you grab a standard model off the shelf or order a custom size for an unusual entryway, accurate numbers are what make the install go smoothly. Spend the extra few minutes with the tape measure now, and you can skip the return line later.

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About the Author

Mark Weir

Mark spent 24 years working in real estate, so he knows his way around a home. He also worked with contractors and experts, advising them on issues of planning, investments, and renovations. Mark is no stranger to hands-on experience, having renovated his own home and many properties for resale. He likes nothing better than seeing a project through to completion.