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How to Snake a Bathtub Drain: In Easy Steps

Updated
Snaking a blocked tub drain is simple, effectively removing the blockage.

Nothing kills the vibe of a relaxing soak faster than standing water that refuses to leave. If you have already tried a plunger and cleaned the stopper to no avail, you are likely dealing with a deeper blockage. It is time to bring in the heavy artillery: a drain snake.

We will walk you through how to choose the right tool, how to safely snake your tub through the overflow, and how to troubleshoot common issues if the cable gets stuck.

Key Takeaways

  • Select the right size: Use a drain snake with a 1/4-inch (0.25) cable for bathtub drains to ensure it navigates the P-trap without getting stuck.
  • Use the overflow: Always feed the snake through the overflow opening (behind the trip plate), not the bottom drain, to bypass sharp turns in the plumbing.
  • Feel for the clog: Feed the cable until you hit resistance. If it feels spongy, you hit the clog; if it is hard, you likely hit a pipe bend.
  • Test the flow: Once the debris is removed, run hot water for several minutes to flush out any remaining residue and clear the line.


What Size Snake for a Tub Drain?

Size matters when it comes to plumbing tools. Most bathtub drain pipes are 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter, so you need a snake that fits comfortably without scraping the interior walls too harshly. A cable thickness of 0.25 inches (1/4 inch) is the industry standard for tubs.

If you are dealing with a shower stall (no tub), the pipes might be slightly larger, usually 2 to 3 inches. in this case, you can get away with a 0.31 or 0.37-inch cable.

Top Tip

Avoid using a toilet auger on a bathtub. Toilet augers are too thick and rigid for the smaller, sharper bends of a tub drain and can crack the P-trap.

How to Snake a Bathtub Drain

Snaking a tub is a manageable DIY project, but it can get messy. Gather your supplies beforehand so you aren’t running for a towel while holding a sludge-covered cable.

What You’ll Need

  • Drain snake (manual or motorized).
  • Screwdriver (Phillips or flathead).
  • Old towels or drop cloths.
  • Rubber gloves.
  • Plastic bag (for debris).

1. Prep the Area

Lay your drop cloth or old towels over the bottom of the bathtub and the floor immediately next to it. Porcelain and fiberglass scratch easily, and the metal tip of the snake can leave gouges if you drop it. Plus, the stuff you pull out of the drain will be black, slimy, and smelly, so you want to keep it off your surfaces.

2. Remove the Overflow Plate

Locate the metal plate on the front wall of the tub, usually directly above the drain. Remove the screws holding it in place. You generally want to snake through here, not the bottom drain, because it provides a straighter shot to the P-trap.

Take Note

If you have a trip-lever stopper, the linkage assembly will come out with the overflow plate. Pull the entire mechanism out slowly and set it aside. This is a great time to clean off any gunk accumulated on the linkage.

3. Insert the Snake

Put on your gloves and insert the head of the auger into the overflow opening. Feed the cable in by hand for the first few feet. You will likely feel resistance quickly; this is usually the P-trap (the U-shaped bend).

If you are using a motorized tool like this Populo Electric Drain Snake, do not turn it on yet. Push the cable manually until you reach the blockage or cannot push any further by hand.

4. Clear the Blockage

Once you hit resistance, tighten the lock on the snake handle. Rotate the drum (or turn on the motor at a low speed) while applying gentle forward pressure. The goal is to hook the hairball or break through the soap scum.

If the cable binds up, stop immediately. Rotate it in reverse for a few turns to free it, then try again. Do not force it, or the cable might kink inside the pipe.

Keep In Mind

If your bathtub and toilet are close together, they might share a vent line. If the snake seems to go on forever but doesn’t hit a clog, you might have sent it up the vent stack. Retract it, adjust the angle slightly, and try again to force it down the drain pipe.

5. Retrieve the Gunk

When you feel the tension release, you have likely cleared the path. Slowly pull the cable back out. It is helpful to have a rag in one hand to wipe the cable as it retracts back into the drum.

When the hook emerges, it will likely be covered in hair and sludge. Pull this off and toss it directly into your trash bag.

6. Reassemble and Flush

Run hot water down the drain for a few minutes to ensure the line is clear. If the water drains rapidly, you are successful. Reinstall the overflow plate (and linkage assembly if you have one), screw it tight, and clean up your drop cloths.

How Do You Make a Homemade Snake?

If you don’t own a plumbing snake and need a fix right now, you can MacGyver a solution using a wire coat hanger. This works best for clogs that are close to the surface, typically hair caught in the crossbars of the drain.

Untwist a wire hanger and straighten it out as much as possible using pliers. Create a small hook at one end (about the size of a finger). Insert this hook into the drain or overflow to fish out hair clumps. Just be careful not to scratch the chrome finish on your drain.

Snake Won’t Go Down the Bathtub Drain

Sometimes the snake hits a wall and refuses to advance. Here is what might be happening and how to fix it:

Stuck at the P-Trap

The P-trap is a sharp U-bend designed to hold water and block sewer gases. It is the most common place for a snake to get hung up. If you hit a hard stop, you are hitting the curve of the pipe. loosen the lock nut, pull the cable back a few inches, and rotate the handle while pushing forward simultaneously. This spinning action helps the tip navigate the corner.

Old Drum Traps

In very old homes (pre-1960s), you might have a drum trap instead of a P-trap. These look like small metal canisters. Standard snakes often just coil up inside the drum rather than pushing through to the outlet pipe. If you suspect you have a drum trap, you may need a professional plumber to open the cleanout lid to clear it.

Wrong Angle

If you are trying to go through the bottom drain, the angle is often too sharp for the cable to make the turn into the main horizontal pipe. This is why we almost always recommend going through the overflow plate; the angle of entry is much shallower and easier to navigate.

FAQs

What Can You Use If a Snake is Not Working?

If the snake fails, try a wet/dry shop vac to suck the blockage out, or use a flange plunger to force it through. If it is a stubborn organic clog, a chemical gel like Drano Max Gel might dissolve it, but use chemicals sparingly.

Can a Drain Snake Break a Pipe?

Yes, if used aggressively. Older galvanized steel pipes can corrode and become thin over time. A motorized snake spinning at high speed can scrape the interior or punch through a rusted section. Always use low speeds and stop if you feel metal-on-metal scraping.

What Will Dissolve Hair In a Drain?

Hair is tough to dissolve, but highly alkaline or acidic cleaners can break it down. Specialized chemical drain cleaners work fastest. For a natural approach, baking soda and vinegar can loosen the gunk holding the hair together, but they won’t fully dissolve the hair itself.

How Often Should I Snake My Bathtub Drain?

You should only snake the drain when you notice the water draining slowly. However, using a plastic “hair zipper” tool once a month to clear the first few inches of the drain is a great preventive measure that keeps massive clogs from forming deep in the pipes.


Final Thoughts

Unblocking a bathtub drain is a messy job, but it is a rite of passage for any homeowner. By accessing the clog through the overflow plate and using the right size cable, you can clear most blockages in under twenty minutes.

Keep that drain snake handy; if the water starts pooling around your ankles again, you will know exactly what to do.

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About the Author

Mark Weir

Mark spent 24 years working in real estate, so he knows his way around a home. He also worked with contractors and experts, advising them on issues of planning, investments, and renovations. Mark is no stranger to hands-on experience, having renovated his own home and many properties for resale. He likes nothing better than seeing a project through to completion.