Stick welding is the rugged grandfather of the welding world. It is cheap to get into, bites through rusty or painted metal that stops other processes, and needs no shielding gas tank, so it holds an arc outdoors where wind would ruin a MIG weld.
That toughness comes with a learning curve. You feed the rod, hold a steady arc length, and read the puddle all at once, and every one of those has to be right for the bead to hold.
This guide walks you through the whole process, from picking the right electrode and dialing in amperage to striking a clean arc and chasing down defects.
Key Takeaways
- Stick welding (SMAW) burns a flux-coated electrode to join metal, and the burning flux shields the puddle, so it works outdoors and on rusty, painted, or thick steel with no gas tank.
- Good welds come down to the five CLAMS variables: Current, Length of arc, Angle, Manipulation, and Speed.
- Match the rod to the job: E6010 or E6011 for deep-penetrating dirty-metal welds, E6013 for easy beginner beads, and E7018 for strong structural joints.
- Stick welding throws UV radiation and toxic metal fumes, so an auto-darkening helmet, fire-resistant clothing, a P100 respirator, and ventilation are required, not optional.
How Does Stick Welding Work?
Stick welding, technically called Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), uses an electrode and an electrical current to join metals. It gets its nickname from the "stick" electrode you hold in the stinger. This rod is coated in a flux that burns as you weld.
As the flux burns, it creates a gas cloud that shields the molten metal from oxidation. This eliminates the need for an external gas tank. Once the weld cools, that flux hardens into a layer of slag, which you chip away to reveal the finished bead.
Electrodes generally fall into three categories based on their coating. The coating determines how the rod reacts to slag freeze, penetration, and deposition rates.
What Can I Weld With a Stick Welder?
Stick welding is remarkably versatile. It can weld cast iron, mild steel, stainless steel, and hard-facing alloys. While it is possible to weld aluminum with stick, it is difficult and generally not recommended compared to MIG or TIG.
This process shines when working on thicker materials (1/8 inch and up). It is also the only process that effectively welds through rust, paint, and mill scale, making it ideal for heavy equipment repair.
Advantages of Stick Welding
Here is why you might choose stick over other methods:
- Low startup cost: Equipment is cheap and simple.
- Portability: No gas cylinders to haul around.
- Outdoor performance: Wind does not blow away your shielding gas.
- Forgiving: Works on dirty, rusty, or painted metal.
- Versatility: Quick changeover between metals by swapping rods.
- Reach: Long leads allow you to weld far from the power source.
Disadvantages of Stick Welding
Consider these drawbacks before starting:
- Skill curve: It is harder to learn than MIG welding.
- Cleanup: You must chip slag and clean spatter after every pass.
- Inefficiency: Frequent stops to change electrodes slow you down.
- Thin metal: Difficult to use on sheet metal thinner than 18-gauge (burn-through is common).
- Waste: You throw away the remaining "stub" of every electrode.
What You Need
Gather these essentials before you strike an arc.
- Power supply (Welder).
- Electrode holder (Stinger).
- Ground clamp.
- Electrodes (Rods).
- Chipping hammer (essential for slag).
- Wire brush.
- Safety glasses.
- Welding helmet.
- Heavy leather welding gloves.
- Welding jacket (leather or flame-retardant cotton).
- Angle grinder (for prep).
- Leather boots.
How To Stick Weld
Stick welding is simple in theory but requires muscle memory to master. You have to maintain a steady hand while the electrode burns away and gets shorter.
1. Weld Joint Preparation
While stick welding is forgiving on dirty metal, cleaner is always better. For high-quality welds, remove oil, grease, rust, and paint.
Use an angle grinder with a flap disc or grinding wheel to expose shiny, bare metal. If you are welding thick plates, bevel the edges to ensure the weld penetrates all the way through the joint.
2. Electrode Selection
Understanding the code on the rod pays off. A standard classification like E7018 tells you everything you need to know:
- E: Stands for Electrode.
- 70: Tensile strength. This rod produces a weld that can hold 70,000 psi.
- 1: Position. "1" means all positions (flat, horizontal, vertical, overhead). "2" means flat and horizontal only.
- 8: Coating type and current. This digit indicates the flux composition and whether it runs on AC or DC.
Common rods for beginners include:
E6010 / E6011
These "fast-freeze" rods dig deep. They are perfect for rusty farm repairs or root passes. E6010 requires a DC welder, while E6011 runs on AC or DC.
E6013
A "soft" rod with low penetration. It is excellent for sheet metal and clean surfaces. It runs smoothly and the slag peels off easily.
E7018
The structural heavy-hitter. It produces smooth, strong, X-ray quality welds. Its low-hydrogen flux soaks up moisture from the air, and a damp rod introduces hydrogen that can crack the weld hours or even days after it cools. Keep E7018 in a holding oven around 250 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit, and once you pull a rod out, use it within a few hours (Lincoln Electric).
3. Stick Welder Setup
Polarity
Most stick welding is done on DCEP (Direct Current Electrode Positive), also known as "Reverse Polarity." This directs more heat into the rod for better penetration. Some thin metals use DCEN (Straight Polarity) to prevent burn-through. Check your rod’s box for the recommended polarity.
Amperage
There is no single magic number, but a good rule of thumb is one amp per .001 inch of rod diameter. For a 1/8" rod (0.125), start around 125 amps. As a starting window for common rod sizes, Miller’s stick calculator lands here:
- 3/32-inch rod: roughly 70 to 110 amps for thin to medium steel.
- 1/8-inch rod: roughly 90 to 165 amps for 1/8-inch plate and up.
- 5/32-inch rod: roughly 130 to 220 amps for thick plate.
Your rod’s box lists the maker’s range, so start there and adjust up or down by 5-10 amps until the puddle wets out smoothly without undercutting.
4. Technique and Manipulation
Striking the Arc
Think of it like lighting a match. Scratch the rod quickly against the metal to create a spark, then immediately lift it slightly to establish the arc. If you tap it straight down, it will likely stick to the metal.
Arc Length
Keep the arc tight. The distance between the rod tip and the metal should be roughly equal to the diameter of the rod core. If you pull too far away, the voltage spikes, the puddle cools, and spatter goes everywhere.
Rod Movement
- Drag: For E7018 and E6013, simply drag the rod in a straight line. Tilt the rod 10 to 15 degrees in the direction of travel. "If there’s slag, you drag."
- Whip and Pause: For E6010/E6011, step forward to dig a hole, then step back to fill it. It creates a stack-of-dimes look.
- Weave: For wider joints or vertical-up welding, move side-to-side to tie into both toes of the weld.
5. Welding Positions
Gravity affects your puddle, so adjust your technique based on the position.
Flat (1G)
The easiest position. Drag the rod at a 10-30 degree angle. Gravity helps pull the molten metal into the joint.
Horizontal (2G)
Point the rod slightly upward (about 45 degrees) to push the puddle up against gravity. Watch out for sagging.
Vertical (3G)
You can weld vertical-up or vertical-down. Vertical-up provides deeper penetration and is required for structural work (use E7018). Vertical-down is faster and works well for thin metal (use E6010).
Overhead (4G)
Use a tight arc and move fast. If the puddle gets too big, gravity will pull molten metal onto you. Wear full leathers for this.
The 5 Variables of Success (CLAMS)
Memorize the acronym CLAMS. If your weld looks bad, one of these five things is wrong.
C: Current Setting
If your amps are too low, the rod sticks and the puddle is sluggish. If amps are too high, the rod glows red, the flux burns prematurely, and the arc sounds harsh. Find the "sweet spot" where the arc sounds like bacon frying.
L: Length of Arc
A long arc increases voltage and heat but reduces control. A tight arc concentrates the heat. Aim to keep the rod about 1/8-inch from the workpiece.
A: Angle of Travel
Your drag angle determines puddle shape. A 10 to 15-degree drag angle is standard. Too much angle creates irregular beads; too little makes it hard to see the puddle.
M: Manipulation
This refers to how you move the rod (straight stringer, weave, circles, or whip). Consistent movement creates a consistent bead.
S: Speed of Travel
Move too fast, and the bead is thin and stringy. Move too slow, and the weld piles up like a caterpillar. Watch the puddle, not the arc, let the puddle fill out to the desired width before moving forward.
Stick Welding Safety
Welding involves high voltage, extreme heat, and UV radiation. You cannot cut corners on safety.
Required PPE checklist:
- Eyes: Auto-darkening helmet (shade 10-12).
- Lungs: Respirator (P100 filters) to block metal fumes.
- Skin: Flame-resistant jacket and pants. No synthetic fabrics like polyester (they melt to skin).
- Hands: Thick leather gauntlet gloves.
- Feet: Leather boots. No sneakers.
- Environment: Clear flammables and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
Weld Fumes: The plume off a stick electrode is not just smoke. Mild steel rods release manganese, and breathing it in over time is linked to neurological damage with Parkinson-like tremors, per OSHA. Keep your head out of the plume, run a fume extractor or local exhaust, and wear a P100 respirator. Mechanical ventilation is required once you have under 10,000 cubic feet of shop space per welder or a ceiling below 16 feet.
Arc Eye: Never look at the arc without a helmet. Arc eye is essentially a sunburn on your corneas. It feels like sand in your eyes and can wake you up in agony hours after welding.
Common Mistakes and Troubleshooting
Even pros run into issues. Here is how to fix the most common problems.
1. Spatter
Excessive spatter (little metal BBs everywhere) usually means your arc length is too long or your amperage is too high. Tighten up your arc and dial down the heat.
2. Porosity
These are tiny pinholes in the weld face, looking like a sponge. It is caused by gas trapped in the metal.
Fix: Clean the base metal thoroughly. Porosity also happens if you pull the arc too far away, breaking the shielding gas coverage.
3. Undercut
This is a groove melted into the base metal along the toes of the weld that is not filled with filler metal. It weakens the part significantly.
Fix: Slow down your travel speed, reduce amperage, and pause slightly at the edges of your weave to let the puddle fill in.
4. Slag Inclusions
This happens when slag gets trapped inside the weld. It usually occurs during multi-pass welding if you fail to clean the previous bead properly.
Fix: Chip and wire brush every single pass until it is shiny before laying the next bead.
5. Sticking the Rod
The rod freezes to the metal. This is common for beginners.
Fix: Increase your amperage slightly or work on your "match strike" starting technique.
Stick Welding FAQs
Stick To The Facts
Stick welding is a skill that takes an afternoon to learn but a lifetime to master. It demands patience and a steady hand, but the reward is the ability to fix almost anything, anywhere.
Once you master the rhythm of the arc, you will be ready to tackle everything from trailer repairs to heavy construction. Grab your helmet, strike an arc, and start burning rods.
