How To Stick Weld: Step-by-Step Guide and Safety Tips

Stick welding is the rugged grandfather of the welding world. It is affordable, accessible, and works where other methods fail. Because it does not require a shielding gas tank, it is the go-to method for outdoor repairs in windy or dirty conditions.

We are breaking down exactly how to stick weld, from choosing the right rod to laying the perfect bead.

How Does Stick Welding Work?

Stick welding, technically called Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), uses an electrode and an electrical current to join metals. It gets its nickname from the "stick" electrode you hold in the stinger. This rod is coated in a flux that burns as you weld.

As the flux burns, it creates a gas cloud that shields the molten metal from oxidation. This eliminates the need for an external gas tank. Once the weld cools, that flux hardens into a layer of slag, which you chip away to reveal the finished bead.

Electrodes generally fall into three categories based on their coating. The coating determines how the rod reacts to slag freeze, penetration, and deposition rates.

What Can I Weld With a Stick Welder?

Stick welding is incredibly versatile. It can weld cast iron, mild steel, stainless steel, and hard-facing alloys. While it is possible to weld aluminum with stick, it is difficult and generally not recommended compared to MIG or TIG.

This process shines when working on thicker materials (1/8 inch and up). It is also the only process that effectively welds through rust, paint, and mill scale, making it ideal for heavy equipment repair.

Advantages of Stick Welding

Here is why you might choose stick over other methods:

• Low startup cost: Equipment is cheap and simple.
• Portability: No gas cylinders to haul around.
• Outdoor performance: Wind does not blow away your shielding gas.
• Forgiving: Works on dirty, rusty, or painted metal.
• Versatility: Quick changeover between metals by swapping rods.
• Reach: Long leads allow you to weld far from the power source.

Disadvantages of Stick Welding

Consider these drawbacks before starting:

• Skill curve: It is harder to learn than MIG welding.
• Cleanup: You must chip slag and clean spatter after every pass.
• Inefficiency: Frequent stops to change electrodes slow you down.
• Thin metal: Difficult to use on sheet metal thinner than 18-gauge (burn-through is common).
• Waste: You throw away the remaining "stub" of every electrode.

What You Need

Gather these essentials before you strike an arc.

• Power supply (Welder).
• Electrode holder (Stinger).
• Ground clamp.
• Electrodes (Rods).
• Chipping hammer (essential for slag).
• Wire brush.
• Safety glasses.
• Welding helmet.
• Heavy leather welding gloves.
• Welding jacket (leather or flame-retardant cotton).
• Angle grinder (for prep).
• Leather boots.

How To Stick Weld

Stick welding is simple in theory but requires muscle memory to master. You have to maintain a steady hand while the electrode burns away and gets shorter.

1. Weld Joint Preparation

While stick welding is forgiving on dirty metal, cleaner is always better. For high-quality welds, remove oil, grease, rust, and paint.

Use an angle grinder with a flap disc or grinding wheel to expose shiny, bare metal. If you are welding thick plates, bevel the edges to ensure the weld penetrates all the way through the joint.

2. Electrode Selection

Understanding the code on the rod is vital. A standard classification like E7018 tells you everything you need to know:

• E: Stands for Electrode.
• 70: Tensile strength. This rod produces a weld that can hold 70,000 psi.
• 1: Position. "1" means all positions (flat, horizontal, vertical, overhead). "2" means flat and horizontal only.
• 8: Coating type and current. This digit indicates the flux composition and whether it runs on AC or DC.

Common rods for beginners include:

E6010 / E6011

These "fast-freeze" rods dig deep. They are perfect for rusty farm repairs or root passes. E6010 requires a DC welder, while E6011 runs on AC or DC.

E6013

A "soft" rod with low penetration. It is excellent for sheet metal and clean surfaces. It runs smoothly and the slag peels off easily.

E7018

The structural heavy-hitter. It produces smooth, strong, X-ray quality welds. It must be kept dry (often in an oven) to prevent moisture contamination.

3. Stick Welder Setup

Polarity

Most stick welding is done on DCEP (Direct Current Electrode Positive), also known as "Reverse Polarity." This directs more heat into the rod for better penetration. Some thin metals use DCEN (Straight Polarity) to prevent burn-through. Check your rod’s box for the recommended polarity.

Amperage

There is no single magic number, but a good rule of thumb is one amp per .001 inch of rod diameter. For a 1/8" rod (0.125), start around 125 amps. Adjust up or down by 5-10 amps until the puddle wets out smoothly without undercutting.

4. Technique and Manipulation

Striking the Arc

Think of it like lighting a match. Scratch the rod quickly against the metal to create a spark, then immediately lift it slightly to establish the arc. If you tap it straight down, it will likely stick to the metal.

Arc Length

Keep the arc tight. The distance between the rod tip and the metal should be roughly equal to the diameter of the rod core. If you pull too far away, the voltage spikes, the puddle cools, and spatter goes everywhere.

Rod Movement

• Drag: For E7018 and E6013, simply drag the rod in a straight line. Tilt the rod 10 to 15 degrees in the direction of travel. "If there’s slag, you drag."
• Whip and Pause: For E6010/E6011, step forward to dig a hole, then step back to fill it. It creates a stack-of-dimes look.
• Weave: For wider joints or vertical-up welding, move side-to-side to tie into both toes of the weld.

5. Welding Positions

Gravity affects your puddle, so adjust your technique based on the position.

Flat (1G)

The easiest position. Drag the rod at a 10-30 degree angle. Gravity helps pull the molten metal into the joint.

Horizontal (2G)

Point the rod slightly upward (about 45 degrees) to push the puddle up against gravity. Watch out for sagging.

Vertical (3G)

You can weld vertical-up or vertical-down. Vertical-up provides deeper penetration and is required for structural work (use E7018). Vertical-down is faster and works well for thin metal (use E6010).

Overhead (4G)

Use a tight arc and move fast. If the puddle gets too big, gravity will pull molten metal onto you. Wear full leathers for this.

The 5 Variables of Success (CLAMS)

Memorize the acronym CLAMS. If your weld looks bad, one of these five things is wrong.

C: Current Setting

If your amps are too low, the rod sticks and the puddle is sluggish. If amps are too high, the rod glows red, the flux burns prematurely, and the arc sounds harsh. Find the "sweet spot" where the arc sounds like bacon frying.

L: Length of Arc

A long arc increases voltage and heat but reduces control. A tight arc concentrates the heat. Aim to keep the rod about 1/8-inch from the workpiece.

A: Angle of Travel

Your drag angle determines puddle shape. A 10 to 15-degree drag angle is standard. Too much angle creates irregular beads; too little makes it hard to see the puddle.

M: Manipulation

This refers to how you move the rod (straight stringer, weave, circles, or whip). Consistent movement creates a consistent bead.

S: Speed of Travel

Move too fast, and the bead is thin and stringy. Move too slow, and the weld piles up like a caterpillar. Watch the puddle, not the arc, let the puddle fill out to the desired width before moving forward.

Stick Welding Safety

Welding involves high voltage, extreme heat, and UV radiation. You cannot cut corners on safety.

Required PPE checklist:

• Eyes: Auto-darkening helmet (shade 10-12).
• Lungs: Respirator (P100 filters) to block metal fumes.
• Skin: Flame-resistant jacket and pants. No synthetic fabrics like polyester (they melt to skin).
• Hands: Thick leather gauntlet gloves.
• Feet: Leather boots. No sneakers.
• Environment: Clear flammables and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.

Arc Eye: Never look at the arc without a helmet. Arc eye is essentially a sunburn on your corneas. It feels like sand in your eyes and can wake you up in agony hours after welding.

Common Mistakes and Troubleshooting

Even pros run into issues. Here is how to fix the most common problems.

1. Spatter

Excessive spatter (little metal BBs everywhere) usually means your arc length is too long or your amperage is too high. Tighten up your arc and dial down the heat.

2. Porosity

These are tiny pinholes in the weld face, looking like a sponge. It is caused by gas trapped in the metal.
Fix: Clean the base metal thoroughly. Porosity also happens if you pull the arc too far away, breaking the shielding gas coverage.

3. Undercut

This is a groove melted into the base metal along the toes of the weld that is not filled with filler metal. It weakens the part significantly.
Fix: Slow down your travel speed, reduce amperage, and pause slightly at the edges of your weave to let the puddle fill in.

4. Slag Inclusions

This happens when slag gets trapped inside the weld. It usually occurs during multi-pass welding if you fail to clean the previous bead properly.
Fix: Chip and wire brush every single pass until it is shiny before laying the next bead.

5. Sticking the Rod

The rod freezes to the metal. This is common for beginners.
Fix: Increase your amperage slightly or work on your "match strike" starting technique.

Stick Welding FAQs

Is Stick Welding AC or DC?

Stick welding runs mostly on DC (Direct Current). DC provides easier arc starts, fewer arc outages, less spatter, and smoother welds. While some electrodes like E6011 can run on AC, professionals prefer DC for almost all applications.

Do You Push or Pull When Stick Welding?

You drag (pull) the rod. The general rule is: "If there’s slag, you drag." Dragging prevents the slag from getting trapped in front of the weld pool. Pushing is reserved for wire processes like MIG.

Can You Touch the Electrode While Stick Welding?

No. The electrode is electrically "hot" whenever the welder is on. Touching the rod with bare skin or wet gloves while grounded can result in a severe electric shock. Always wear dry, hole-free gloves.

What Causes a Welding Rod To Stick?

Sticking usually happens because the amperage is too low or the arc length is too short. If the rod touches the metal without enough current to sustain the arc, it fuses instantly. Increasing the amps or using a "hot start" function can help.

Is Stick Welding the Easiest to Learn?

No, MIG welding is generally considered the easiest to learn. Stick welding requires more skill to control the arc length and travel speed simultaneously. However, stick is often the first process taught because it builds excellent puddle control fundamentals.

Do You Stick Weld Uphill or Downhill?

It depends on the rod and thickness. For structural steel and thick plate (1/4 inch+), weld vertical-up (uphill) using E7018 to get deep penetration. For thin sheet metal, you can weld vertical-down (downhill) to prevent burn-through, typically with E6010.

Is Stick Welding Stronger Than MIG?

Not necessarily, but stick is less prone to certain defects like "lack of fusion" on dirty or thick metal. In controlled environments, MIG is just as strong. However, for outdoor field repairs on dirty equipment, stick often produces a more reliable weld.

What Is the Best Beginner Stick Welder?

The Hobart 500570 Stickmate 160i is a top choice. It is a dual-voltage DC inverter, meaning it runs on 120V or 240V power. It provides a smooth arc that makes learning easier than older AC "buzz box" welders.

Stick To The Facts

Stick welding is a skill that takes an afternoon to learn but a lifetime to master. It demands patience and a steady hand, but the reward is the ability to fix almost anything, anywhere.

Once you master the rhythm of the arc, you will be ready to tackle everything from trailer repairs to heavy construction. Grab your helmet, strike an arc, and start burning rods.