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Basement Window Replacement: Steps, Styles, and Egress Rules

Updated
Swap that drafty basement window yourself in an afternoon, no pro required.

A cracked, rotting, or drafty basement window drags down your comfort and your heating bill at the same time. The upside is that swapping one out is a weekend job most handy homeowners can handle with basic tools.

This guide covers how to replace a basement window start to finish: picking the right style, measuring the opening, and setting a new unit into a steel or wood frame. It also walks through the egress code rules that kick in when the window doubles as an emergency exit.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure the rough opening width and height in three spots each, then order to the smallest reading so the new window sits square.
  • Match the style to the job: hopper or sliding windows for ventilation, glass block for privacy and security, and an egress window for any basement bedroom.
  • A basement sleeping room legally needs an egress window with a net clear opening of at least 5.7 square feet and a sill no higher than 44 inches off the floor.
  • Seal the gap between the frame and the concrete with low-expansion foam and exterior caulk to block drafts, water, and insects.


Basement Window Replacement Costs

What you pay comes down to the opening size, the window style, and whether you hire out the labor. Doing it yourself saves the install cost, while a pro adds a watertight, code-correct fit. Most standard basement windows run about $400 to $1,000 replaced. A full egress conversion is the outlier at roughly $2,500 to $5,000 installed, since it means cutting the foundation and building a window well. Here is a breakdown of the typical costs for window replacements:

Window Type Unit Only Unit (Including Installation)
Hopper/Awning $45 to $500 $195 to $1,000
Sliding $40 to $475 $190 to $975
Glass Block $80 to $1,500 $230 to $2,000
Egress $275 to $1,000 $425 to $1,500

Types of Basement Windows

Basement windows prioritize function over fashion, but you still have choices. The right style depends on how much ventilation, light, and security you need.

Hopper Windows

Hopper windows are the go-to choice for many homeowners. They are hinged at the bottom and open inward, making them excellent for ventilation. Because the sash tilts in, they are easy to clean and often feature a tight seal against drafts when locked.

Awning Windows

Awning windows are similar to hoppers, but they hinge at the top and open outward. This design creates a small “roof” over the opening, allowing you to keep the window open for fresh air even when it is raining lightly.

Sliding Windows

Sliding windows (or gliders) move horizontally on a track. They are simple to operate and do not protrude into the room or out into a window well. However, they typically only open halfway, which limits total airflow compared to a hopper.

Glass Block Windows

Glass block windows are constructed from thick, brick-like glass cemented in place. They are arguably the most secure option and offer great privacy, but they do not open. These are ideal for areas where ventilation isn’t a priority but security is.

Egress Windows

An egress window is large enough for an adult to climb out during an emergency, and building codes require one in any basement used as a sleeping room. The catch is that the opening has to hit specific numbers, not just look big enough.

Under the International Residential Code (R310), the window needs a net clear opening of at least 5.7 square feet (5 square feet for a ground-floor opening), a minimum opening height of 24 inches, a minimum width of 20 inches, and a sill no higher than 44 inches above the finished floor (IRC R310). All four have to be met at once, measured with the sash fully open.

Hitting those numbers in a basement usually means cutting the concrete foundation to enlarge the opening and adding a window well. The well has its own minimums: at least 9 square feet of floor area with a 36-inch projection from the wall, plus a permanently affixed ladder or steps if it is deeper than 44 inches.

How to Measure for a New Window

You cannot install what doesn’t fit. Learning how to measure correctly is the most critical step of the project.

If you are removing the entire frame (down to the concrete), you need to measure the “rough opening.” Take three measurements for width (top, middle, bottom) and three for height (left, center, right).

Always use the smallest dimension as your final measurement. If you are just replacing the glass or the sash inserts, measure from the inside of the jamb.

Important Point

When ordering custom glass or windows, subtract about 0.25 inches from your tightest measurement. This allows room for the frame to sit square and for you to add insulation.

How to Replace Basement Windows With Steel Casing

Steel “buck” frames are common in older homes. They are durable but prone to rust and offer poor thermal insulation. Replacing them with a modern vinyl unit will significantly improve energy efficiency.

Here is the gear you need to get the job done:

What You Will Need

1. Remove the Old Metal Frame

Locate the screws or clips holding the steel frame to the concrete. If they are rusted shut, use your drill to bore them out or a reciprocating saw to cut them. Use a pry bar to leverage the frame out of the foundation. If it is stubborn, you may need to cut the frame into sections.

2. Clean and Prep the Opening

Vacuum up the dust, crumbled concrete, and rust flakes. Inspect the concrete rough opening for high spots or ridges that could interfere with the new window.

Chip away obstructions with your hammer and chisel. Once the surface is clean, apply a Siloxane Concrete Sealer to the exposed concrete to prevent future moisture absorption. Let it dry completely.

3. Install the New Window

Remove the sash and screen from your new window frame to prevent damage and make the frame lighter to handle. Center the frame in the opening and use shims to ensure it is level and plumb.

Using a hammer drill, pre-drill holes into the concrete through the frame’s pre-made holes. Drive the concrete screws in carefully; do not overtighten, or you might warp the vinyl frame.

4. Seal the Gaps

Apply a generous bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk or low-expansion spray foam between the window frame and the concrete wall. This seal is your primary defense against water and bugs. Smooth the caulk with a putty knife for a clean look.

5. Reassemble the Window

Snap the sash and screen back into the frame. Test the operation to ensure it opens, closes, and locks smoothly.

6. Apply Interior Trim

For a polished look, measure and cut trim to frame the window interior. Secure the trim with construction adhesive. This covers the gap between the window and the drywall or concrete, hiding any shims or foam.

Replacing a Basement Window With a Wood Frame

Wood frames are easier to remove than steel, but they are often rotted or water-damaged. The removal process is slightly different, but the installation principles remain the same.

Here is your checklist for wood frame replacement:

What You Will Need

  • Hammer and pry bar.
  • Reciprocating saw.
  • Spirit level.
  • Drill/driver.
  • Utility knife.
  • Mortar mix (if repairing concrete).
  • Composite shims.
  • Low-expansion window foam.
  • Concrete screws.
  • Exterior caulk.
  • Trim.
  • Construction adhesive.
  • Shop vacuum.

1. Remove the Old Unit

Take out the window sash first. Use a reciprocating saw to cut through the nails or screws fastening the wooden jamb to the framing or concrete. Use a pry bar to pull the old wood frame out of the opening.

2. Clean and Repair the Opening

Vacuum the opening thoroughly. If the removal process chipped the concrete foundation, use a small amount of mortar to repair the divots. Ensure the sill (bottom) is flat and level. Apply a concrete sealer to waterproof the rough opening.

Top Tip

If the rough opening is significantly out of square, order a window slightly smaller than the narrowest measurement and use a “buck” (a wooden sub-frame) or extra shims to square it up.

3. Install the New Window

Dry fit the window to ensure it fits. Apply a bead of caulk to the concrete sill before setting the window in place. Center the unit and place shims under the corners to level it.

Drill pilot holes through the frame and into the concrete or wood buck. Secure the window with screws, checking frequently with a level to ensure it hasn’t shifted.

4. Insulate and Seal

Fill the gaps around the perimeter with low-expansion spray foam.

Top Tip

Do not use standard high-expansion foam. It exerts too much pressure and will bow the window frame, preventing the sash from opening.

5. Finish the Exterior and Interior

Once the foam cures, trim the excess with a utility knife. Apply a final bead of silicone caulk on the exterior where the window meets the concrete. Install your interior trim to cover the gap for a professional finish.

How to Replace Basement Window Glass

If your frame is solid but a baseball went through the glass, you don’t need a full replacement. Fixing a cracked pane is a cost-effective repair.

Gather these tools before starting:

What You Will Need

  • Heavy-duty gloves and goggles.
  • Hammer.
  • Putty knife.
  • Duct tape.
  • Heat gun.
  • Replacement glass pane.
  • Glazing points.
  • Glazing compound (putty).
  • Linseed oil.
  • Paintbrush.

1. Remove Broken Glass

Safety is paramount here. Wear thick gloves. If the glass is shattered but still in the frame, tape over it with duct tape to hold the shards together while you pull them out. Wiggle the pieces gently to remove them.

2. Clear the Old Putty

Old glazing putty is often rock hard. Use a heat gun to soften it, then scrape it away with a putty knife or chisel. You also need to pull out the old metal glazing points (small triangular clips).

3. Prep the Frame

Clean the rabbet (the groove where the glass sits) with a wire brush. Wipe it down with a rag damp with linseed oil; this conditions the wood and prevents it from sucking the oil out of the new putty too quickly.

4. Apply a Bed of Putty

Knead a small amount of glazing compound until it is soft. Press a thin layer into the primed rabbet grooves to create a cushion for the new glass.

5. Install the Glass

Press the new glass pane firmly against the putty bed. Insert new glazing points every 6 inches to mechanically hold the glass in place. Push them into the wood using the flat edge of your putty knife.

6. Glaze the Window

Roll the remaining putty into long “ropes.” Press these into the edge where the glass meets the frame. Hold your putty knife at an angle and smooth the putty into a neat, triangular bevel. Clean up any excess from the glass.

7. Paint

Wait for the putty to “skin over” (this can take days or weeks depending on the brand). Once dry, paint the putty and the frame to seal it against the weather.

FAQs

Is It Hard to Replace Basement Windows?

Replacing a basement window is a moderate DIY job, not a hard one. If you are comfortable with a drill and a reciprocating saw, a standard swap into an existing opening takes about two to four hours. The difficulty jumps only when you enlarge an opening for an egress window, which means cutting concrete and is best handed to a pro.

Do Basement Windows Need to Open?

Basement windows only have to open if the room is used for sleeping, which triggers the egress requirement. Codes do not force operable windows in a utility or storage basement, but an opening unit is worth it anyway for cross-ventilation that cuts the humidity and musty odors basements are prone to.

What Is the Standard Size of a Basement Window?

There is no single standard, but the most common basement hopper window measures about 31 3/4 by 15 3/4 inches, and typical openings fall in the 30 to 36 inch wide by 12 to 24 inch tall range. Older homes often have smaller openings around 32 by 14 or 32 by 24 inches. Measure your exact rough opening before buying, since windows are sold by opening size.

How Do You Get More Light From Basement Windows?

To pull more light into a basement, keep the window wells clear of leaves and debris and line them with white or reflective panels that bounce sunlight inward. Inside, paint the window jambs white, skip heavy treatments, and keep the glass clean so nothing blocks the daylight that reaches below grade.

Do I Need a Permit to Replace a Basement Window?

A straight swap of an existing basement window for one of the same size usually needs no permit. A permit is almost always required once you cut the foundation to enlarge the opening, such as for an egress window, because that alters the structure. Check with your local building department first, since rules vary by area.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Basement Window?

A standard basement window replacement runs about $400 to $1,000 per unit installed, with the style and size setting the price. Glass block and simple hopper units sit at the low end, while an egress conversion runs roughly $2,500 to $5,000 because it adds foundation cutting and a window well. Doing the install yourself trims $150 to $600 in labor per window.


Easier Than It Looks

Replacing a basement window looks intimidating, but with careful measuring and the right seals it is a solid weekend project. Trading rusty, drafty frames for a tight new unit trims your energy bills and makes the whole basement feel less like a cave.

Grab your tape measure, confirm your numbers twice, and get to work. You will notice the difference every time you head downstairs.

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About the Author

Mark Weir

Mark spent 24 years working in real estate, so he knows his way around a home. He also worked with contractors and experts, advising them on issues of planning, investments, and renovations. Mark is no stranger to hands-on experience, having renovated his own home and many properties for resale. He likes nothing better than seeing a project through to completion.