A cracked, rotting, or drafty basement window drags down your comfort and your heating bill at the same time. The upside is that swapping one out is a weekend job most handy homeowners can handle with basic tools.
This guide covers how to replace a basement window start to finish: picking the right style, measuring the opening, and setting a new unit into a steel or wood frame. It also walks through the egress code rules that kick in when the window doubles as an emergency exit.
Key Takeaways
- Measure the rough opening width and height in three spots each, then order to the smallest reading so the new window sits square.
- Match the style to the job: hopper or sliding windows for ventilation, glass block for privacy and security, and an egress window for any basement bedroom.
- A basement sleeping room legally needs an egress window with a net clear opening of at least 5.7 square feet and a sill no higher than 44 inches off the floor.
- Seal the gap between the frame and the concrete with low-expansion foam and exterior caulk to block drafts, water, and insects.
Basement Window Replacement Costs
What you pay comes down to the opening size, the window style, and whether you hire out the labor. Doing it yourself saves the install cost, while a pro adds a watertight, code-correct fit. Most standard basement windows run about $400 to $1,000 replaced. A full egress conversion is the outlier at roughly $2,500 to $5,000 installed, since it means cutting the foundation and building a window well. Here is a breakdown of the typical costs for window replacements:
| Window Type | Unit Only | Unit (Including Installation) |
| Hopper/Awning | $45 to $500 | $195 to $1,000 |
| Sliding | $40 to $475 | $190 to $975 |
| Glass Block | $80 to $1,500 | $230 to $2,000 |
| Egress | $275 to $1,000 | $425 to $1,500 |
Types of Basement Windows
Basement windows prioritize function over fashion, but you still have choices. The right style depends on how much ventilation, light, and security you need.
Hopper Windows
Hopper windows are the go-to choice for many homeowners. They are hinged at the bottom and open inward, making them excellent for ventilation. Because the sash tilts in, they are easy to clean and often feature a tight seal against drafts when locked.
Awning Windows
Awning windows are similar to hoppers, but they hinge at the top and open outward. This design creates a small “roof” over the opening, allowing you to keep the window open for fresh air even when it is raining lightly.
Sliding Windows
Sliding windows (or gliders) move horizontally on a track. They are simple to operate and do not protrude into the room or out into a window well. However, they typically only open halfway, which limits total airflow compared to a hopper.
Glass Block Windows
Glass block windows are constructed from thick, brick-like glass cemented in place. They are arguably the most secure option and offer great privacy, but they do not open. These are ideal for areas where ventilation isn’t a priority but security is.
Egress Windows
An egress window is large enough for an adult to climb out during an emergency, and building codes require one in any basement used as a sleeping room. The catch is that the opening has to hit specific numbers, not just look big enough.
Under the International Residential Code (R310), the window needs a net clear opening of at least 5.7 square feet (5 square feet for a ground-floor opening), a minimum opening height of 24 inches, a minimum width of 20 inches, and a sill no higher than 44 inches above the finished floor (IRC R310). All four have to be met at once, measured with the sash fully open.
Hitting those numbers in a basement usually means cutting the concrete foundation to enlarge the opening and adding a window well. The well has its own minimums: at least 9 square feet of floor area with a 36-inch projection from the wall, plus a permanently affixed ladder or steps if it is deeper than 44 inches.
How to Measure for a New Window
You cannot install what doesn’t fit. Learning how to measure correctly is the most critical step of the project.
If you are removing the entire frame (down to the concrete), you need to measure the “rough opening.” Take three measurements for width (top, middle, bottom) and three for height (left, center, right).
Always use the smallest dimension as your final measurement. If you are just replacing the glass or the sash inserts, measure from the inside of the jamb.
Important Point
When ordering custom glass or windows, subtract about 0.25 inches from your tightest measurement. This allows room for the frame to sit square and for you to add insulation.
How to Replace Basement Windows With Steel Casing
Steel “buck” frames are common in older homes. They are durable but prone to rust and offer poor thermal insulation. Replacing them with a modern vinyl unit will significantly improve energy efficiency.
Here is the gear you need to get the job done:
What You Will Need
- Cold chisel.
- Mallet or mini-sledgehammer.
- Reciprocating saw with metal blade.
- Pry bar.
- Replacement window.
- Siloxane concrete sealer.
- Putty knife.
- Miter saw.
- PVC or wood trim.
- Construction adhesive (Liquid Nails).
- Drill/driver.
- Tapcon concrete screws (double-threaded).
- Hammer drill.
- Exterior filler or silicone caulk.
- Shop Vacuum.
- Safety glasses.
- Face mask.
- Earplugs.
1. Remove the Old Metal Frame
Locate the screws or clips holding the steel frame to the concrete. If they are rusted shut, use your drill to bore them out or a reciprocating saw to cut them. Use a pry bar to leverage the frame out of the foundation. If it is stubborn, you may need to cut the frame into sections.
2. Clean and Prep the Opening
Vacuum up the dust, crumbled concrete, and rust flakes. Inspect the concrete rough opening for high spots or ridges that could interfere with the new window.
Chip away obstructions with your hammer and chisel. Once the surface is clean, apply a Siloxane Concrete Sealer to the exposed concrete to prevent future moisture absorption. Let it dry completely.
3. Install the New Window
Remove the sash and screen from your new window frame to prevent damage and make the frame lighter to handle. Center the frame in the opening and use shims to ensure it is level and plumb.
Using a hammer drill, pre-drill holes into the concrete through the frame’s pre-made holes. Drive the concrete screws in carefully; do not overtighten, or you might warp the vinyl frame.
4. Seal the Gaps
Apply a generous bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk or low-expansion spray foam between the window frame and the concrete wall. This seal is your primary defense against water and bugs. Smooth the caulk with a putty knife for a clean look.
5. Reassemble the Window
Snap the sash and screen back into the frame. Test the operation to ensure it opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
6. Apply Interior Trim
For a polished look, measure and cut trim to frame the window interior. Secure the trim with construction adhesive. This covers the gap between the window and the drywall or concrete, hiding any shims or foam.
Replacing a Basement Window With a Wood Frame
Wood frames are easier to remove than steel, but they are often rotted or water-damaged. The removal process is slightly different, but the installation principles remain the same.
Here is your checklist for wood frame replacement:
What You Will Need
- Hammer and pry bar.
- Reciprocating saw.
- Spirit level.
- Drill/driver.
- Utility knife.
- Mortar mix (if repairing concrete).
- Composite shims.
- Low-expansion window foam.
- Concrete screws.
- Exterior caulk.
- Trim.
- Construction adhesive.
- Shop vacuum.
1. Remove the Old Unit
Take out the window sash first. Use a reciprocating saw to cut through the nails or screws fastening the wooden jamb to the framing or concrete. Use a pry bar to pull the old wood frame out of the opening.
2. Clean and Repair the Opening
Vacuum the opening thoroughly. If the removal process chipped the concrete foundation, use a small amount of mortar to repair the divots. Ensure the sill (bottom) is flat and level. Apply a concrete sealer to waterproof the rough opening.
Top Tip
If the rough opening is significantly out of square, order a window slightly smaller than the narrowest measurement and use a “buck” (a wooden sub-frame) or extra shims to square it up.
3. Install the New Window
Dry fit the window to ensure it fits. Apply a bead of caulk to the concrete sill before setting the window in place. Center the unit and place shims under the corners to level it.
Drill pilot holes through the frame and into the concrete or wood buck. Secure the window with screws, checking frequently with a level to ensure it hasn’t shifted.
4. Insulate and Seal
Fill the gaps around the perimeter with low-expansion spray foam.
Top Tip
Do not use standard high-expansion foam. It exerts too much pressure and will bow the window frame, preventing the sash from opening.
5. Finish the Exterior and Interior
Once the foam cures, trim the excess with a utility knife. Apply a final bead of silicone caulk on the exterior where the window meets the concrete. Install your interior trim to cover the gap for a professional finish.
How to Replace Basement Window Glass
If your frame is solid but a baseball went through the glass, you don’t need a full replacement. Fixing a cracked pane is a cost-effective repair.
Gather these tools before starting:
What You Will Need
- Heavy-duty gloves and goggles.
- Hammer.
- Putty knife.
- Duct tape.
- Heat gun.
- Replacement glass pane.
- Glazing points.
- Glazing compound (putty).
- Linseed oil.
- Paintbrush.
1. Remove Broken Glass
Safety is paramount here. Wear thick gloves. If the glass is shattered but still in the frame, tape over it with duct tape to hold the shards together while you pull them out. Wiggle the pieces gently to remove them.
2. Clear the Old Putty
Old glazing putty is often rock hard. Use a heat gun to soften it, then scrape it away with a putty knife or chisel. You also need to pull out the old metal glazing points (small triangular clips).
3. Prep the Frame
Clean the rabbet (the groove where the glass sits) with a wire brush. Wipe it down with a rag damp with linseed oil; this conditions the wood and prevents it from sucking the oil out of the new putty too quickly.
4. Apply a Bed of Putty
Knead a small amount of glazing compound until it is soft. Press a thin layer into the primed rabbet grooves to create a cushion for the new glass.
5. Install the Glass
Press the new glass pane firmly against the putty bed. Insert new glazing points every 6 inches to mechanically hold the glass in place. Push them into the wood using the flat edge of your putty knife.
6. Glaze the Window
Roll the remaining putty into long “ropes.” Press these into the edge where the glass meets the frame. Hold your putty knife at an angle and smooth the putty into a neat, triangular bevel. Clean up any excess from the glass.
7. Paint
Wait for the putty to “skin over” (this can take days or weeks depending on the brand). Once dry, paint the putty and the frame to seal it against the weather.
FAQs
Easier Than It Looks
Replacing a basement window looks intimidating, but with careful measuring and the right seals it is a solid weekend project. Trading rusty, drafty frames for a tight new unit trims your energy bills and makes the whole basement feel less like a cave.
Grab your tape measure, confirm your numbers twice, and get to work. You will notice the difference every time you head downstairs.