We will walk you through how to change a toilet step-by-step, helping you save cash on plumbing fees while avoiding messy disasters.
Key Takeaways
- Know your rough-in: Measure from the wall (not the baseboard) to the bolt center before buying; 12 inches is standard.
- Drain completely: Shut off water, flush, and use a sponge or shop vac to remove every drop of water before lifting.
- Wax ring is critical: Always use a new wax ring (or wax-free seal) to prevent dangerous sewer gas and water leaks.
- Don’t overtighten: Tighten bolts gradually and alternately to avoid cracking the porcelain base or tank.
Can I Replace My Toilet Myself?
Absolutely. You don’t need a master plumber license to change a toilet. The process usually takes a standard DIYer about two hours. It requires minimal plumbing skills, mostly involving turning wrenches and lifting.
However, keep your back in mind. Toilets are heavy, awkward porcelain objects weighing between 60 and 120 pounds. If you aren’t confident lifting that weight, grab a helper.
How to Choose a New Toilet
Buying a toilet isn’t just about picking the first white bowl you see. You need to consider fit, flushing power, and cleaning ease. Here is what to look for when shopping for a new commode:
Check the Rough-In
Before you fall in love with a specific model, grab your tape measure. You need to measure the “rough-in” distance. This is the distance from the finished wall (not the baseboard) to the center of the floor drain (usually covered by a bolt cap).
The standard is 12 inches. If your home is older, you might find a 10-inch or 14-inch rough-in. You must buy a toilet that matches this measurement, or it won’t fit.
One-Piece Toilet
One-piece toilets are molded from a single chunk of porcelain. Because the tank and bowl are fused, there are no gaskets to rot and no potential for leaks between the two sections. They also sit lower to the ground and offer a sleeker profile.
This Swiss Madison is a prime example of a modern one-piece design that eliminates crevices where dirt likes to hide.
The main downsides are price and weight. They are generally more expensive than two-piece models and much heavier to lift into place during installation.
Two-Piece Toilets
Two-piece toilets are the most common type found in American homes. They come in two boxes: one for the tank and one for the bowl. This makes them easier to move and install since you aren’t lifting the whole unit at once.
The trade-off is the connection point. You have to bolt the tank to the bowl using a rubber gasket. Over time, this rubber can perish and cause leaks, though it is a cheap fix.
Two-piece toilets are usually more affordable and offer a traditional look. This American Standard (linked here generally, though the box above shows a Toto) represents the classic reliability of this style.
Wall-Hung Toilets
Wall-hung toilets, or floating toilets, bolt directly to the wall frame, hovering above the floor. The water tank is usually concealed inside the wall cavity.
These are fantastic for small bathrooms because they save floor space and make mopping underneath a breeze. Models like this Kohler model add an instant high-end hotel vibe to your home.
However, installation is complex. You need to open up the wall to install a carrier system. If you have limited plumbing experience, this is one job where calling a pro is recommended.
Take Note
Wall-hung toilets have a strict weight limit based on the carrier frame. If durability is your main concern, a floor-mounted toilet is generally more robust.
Macerator Toilet
Macerator toilets, or upflush toilets, are problem solvers. They use an electric pump and blades to liquefy waste and pump it up or sideways to your main soil stack.
This allows you to install a bathroom in a basement (below the sewer line) or an attic without tearing up the floors for new plumbing pipes.
Brands like Saniflo are the leaders here. Just be aware they are noisier than standard toilets and rely on electricity to flush.
How to Drain a Toilet
You cannot pull a toilet while it is full of water unless you want a flooded bathroom. Draining it properly takes about 15 minutes.
What You’ll Need
- Plunger.
- Sponge and bucket (or a Wet/Dry Vac).
- Old towels.
- Rubber gloves.
Step by Step
- Locate the water supply valve on the wall or floor behind the toilet and turn it clockwise to shut it off.
- Flush the toilet. Hold the handle down to let as much water as possible drain from the tank and bowl.
- Soak up the remaining water in the tank with a large sponge and wring it into your bucket.
- Use the plunger to force the remaining water down the bowl drain.
- Sponge out the last bit of water at the bottom of the bowl. If you have a Shop-Vac, this is the perfect time to use it.
How to Replace a Toilet
With the water gone, you are ready to remove the old throne.
How to Remove an Old Toilet
Having the right tools ready prevents mid-job panic.
What You’ll Need
- Old rag.
- Utility knife.
- Putty knife.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Hacksaw (optional, for stuck bolts).
- Disposal bags.
- Disconnect the water supply line from the bottom of the toilet tank using your adjustable wrench or pliers.
- Remove the caps covering the floor bolts. Unscrew the nuts using a wrench. If they are rusted shut, you may need to saw them off with a hacksaw.
- If you have a two-piece toilet, unbolt the tank from the bowl and remove it first to lighten the load.
- Use a utility knife to slice through the caulk seal around the base of the toilet. This DIYSELF set works well.
- Rock the toilet gently to break the wax seal, then lift it straight up and place it on a drop cloth or old newspaper.
- Scrape the old wax off the floor flange using a putty knife. It will be sticky and gross; this is normal.
- Stuff an old rag into the open sewer pipe immediately. This blocks sewer gases and prevents tools from falling down the hole.
Top Tip
Inspect the toilet flange (the plastic or metal ring on the floor). If it’s cracked or broken, use a flange repair kit now. A broken flange causes wobbly toilets and leaks.
Install the New Toilet
Now for the rewarding part.
What You’ll Need
- Adjustable wrench.
- Spirit level.
- Plastic shims.
- New wax ring (or wax-free seal).
- New water supply line.
- Caulk.
Prepare the Wax Ring
Remove the rag from the pipe. Place the new bolts into the flange slots.
You have two options for the wax ring: stick it to the bottom of the new toilet bowl, or place it on the floor flange. Most pros prefer placing it on the flange so they can ensure it’s centered.
Set the Toilet
Lift the toilet bowl and position it over the flange. Align the holes in the base with the floor bolts. Lower it gently.
Once it touches the floor, do not lift it back up or you will break the wax seal and have to buy a new one.
Compress the Seal
Sit on the toilet backwards (facing the tank). Your body weight helps compress the wax ring evenly. Rock very slightly to settle it, but don’t overdo it.
Tighten the Bolts
Place the washers and nuts onto the floor bolts. Hand-tighten them first. Then, use a wrench to tighten them alternately, two turns on the left, two turns on the right.
Stop when they feel snug. If you overtighten, you will crack the porcelain base.
Level and Connect
Place a spirit level across the bowl. If it isn’t level, slide plastic shims under the low side until it is perfect. Trim the shims with a knife.
Install the tank (if it’s a two-piece) ensuring the tank-to-bowl gasket is in place.
Connect Water and Test
Attach the new water supply line to the fill valve and the wall stop. Turn the water on.
Flush the toilet and check for leaks at three points: the supply line connection, the tank bolts, and the floor base.
Keep an eye on the base for the next few flushes. If it stays dry, apply a bead of caulk around the base, leaving a small gap at the back to allow leak detection in the future.
How to Replace a Toilet Seat
Most new toilets come with a seat, but if yours didn’t, or you want a fancy bidet seat, here is the drill.
What You’ll Need
- New toilet seat.
- Screwdriver.
- Wrench (maybe).
Step by Step
- Align the seat hinges over the holes in the bowl.
- Push the plastic bolts through the holes.
- Thread the nuts from underneath. Many modern seats have “top fixing” mechanisms that tighten entirely from above with a screwdriver.
- Tighten securely, but remember: it’s plastic, not steel. Don’t strip the threads.
Be Aware
Overtightening seat bolts is the number one cause of difficult removals later. Snug is enough.
Toilet Replacement Tips
We could all do with some help when we start any DIY task. Here are a few pro tips to make the job smoother.
Check Your Shut-Off Valve First
Before you do anything, test the shut-off valve behind the toilet. If it is old, it might be stuck or leak when you turn it. It is better to know this before you disconnect the toilet. If it fails, you’ll need to shut off the main house water to replace that valve first.
Use a Wax-Free Seal
If you are nervous about messing up the wax ring, buy a wax-free seal (like Sani-Seal or Perfect Seal). They are made of rubber or foam, can be repositioned multiple times if you don’t get the alignment right on the first try, and are much less messy.
Don’t Reuse Supply Lines
Flexible water supply lines have rubber washers that harden over time. When you disconnect the old one, buy a new braided stainless steel supply line ($5-$10). It is cheap insurance against a flooded house.
Use Shims Correctly
Shims are your best friend on uneven tile floors. Never try to tighten the bolts to force the toilet down to the floor; the porcelain will snap. Use these Multi-Purpose Nylon Shims to fill the gap, then caulk over them.
How Much Does a Plumber Charge to Replace a Toilet?
If all this sounds like too much work, hiring a pro is a valid option.
You can save money by removing the old toilet yourself and just having the plumber install the new one. Disposal fees alone can add up.
The average cost for a plumber to replace a toilet typically falls between $150 and $300 for labor. This does not include the cost of the toilet itself. Most plumbers charge an hourly rate (often $75, $100+) with a minimum call-out fee.
FAQs
Should You Caulk Around a Toilet?
Yes, plumbing codes usually require caulking around the base of the toilet. It keeps urine and mop water from getting underneath the base, which causes odors. However, leave a small 1-inch gap at the back so if the wax ring leaks, you will see the water on the floor rather than it rotting the subfloor unseen.
How Long Does It Take a Plumber to Replace a Toilet?
A professional plumber can usually swap a toilet in 1 to 2 hours, assuming there are no flange repairs needed. If the flange is broken or the bolts are rusted solid, it may take longer.
How Long After Installation Can a Toilet be Used?
You can use the toilet immediately after installation. The wax ring seals instantly. If you used silicone caulk around the base, avoid mopping the floor for 24 hours to let it cure, but the toilet itself is ready for action.
How Tight Should the Bolts on a Toilet Be?
The rule of thumb is “hand tight plus a quarter turn.” The goal is for the toilet not to rock. If you hear metal scraping against porcelain, stop immediately. You risk cracking the bowl.
How Do I Know What Size Toilet to Buy?
Measure from the wall behind the toilet to the center of the floor bolts. This is your “rough-in.” The standard is 12 inches, but 10-inch and 14-inch rough-ins exist. Do not measure from the baseboard molding, as this will give you an incorrect number.
Replacing a Toilet Is Easier Than You Think
Most plumbing tasks seem daunting because, well, water damage is scary. But changing a toilet is surprisingly logical.
By working slowly, having a bucket ready, and not overtightening your bolts, you can refresh your bathroom in a single afternoon. Plus, think of the cash you’ll save by skipping the plumber, that’s enough for a really nice new towel set.
