Rivets are built to be permanent, which is great when they are holding a boat hull or a gutter together and maddening the day you need to take that thing apart. You cannot back a rivet out like a screw, so the only real move is to drill the head off.
Do it wrong and you pay for it: a wandering bit chews up the surrounding metal or opens the hole so wide that the replacement rivet has nothing to grip. The trick is matching the bit to the rivet and keeping the drill under control.
This guide walks through how to remove rivets with a drill bit the clean way. You will see why rivets fail, the exact tools to gather, the right bit size for the job, and a step-by-step method that gets the fastener out without wrecking the panel behind it.
Key Takeaways
- Match the drill bit to the rivet’s shank diameter, not the wide head. A standard 1/8-inch pop rivet takes about a 1/8-inch bit.
- Center-punch a divot on the rivet head first so the bit cannot wander across the metal.
- Drill slowly with steady pressure until the head shears off the shaft, then stop.
- If the rivet spins, pin the flange with pliers or press duct tape over the head for friction.
Why Do Rivets Break?
Rivets are meant to last, but they are not indestructible. Most failures trace back to low-quality metal or a bad installation. A rivet that was not seated squarely lets moisture creep in and rust the joint, while ordinary vibration can eventually fatigue the head until it snaps.
Installation pressure is the usual culprit. Squeeze a rivet too hard and the stressed metal can shear later; set it too loose and the joint rattles until it works itself apart. Either way, once a rivet fails there is no repairing it. You drill it out and fit a new one.
What You Need
To pull a rivet without tearing up the sheet metal behind it, gather the right kit first. Here is everything the job calls for:
- Drill: A cordless drill is best for mobility, especially if you are on a ladder.
- Drill Bits: Cobalt or High-Speed Steel (HSS) bits work best. Titanium-coated bits add some heat resistance for repeated holes.
- Center Punch: This is what keeps your bit centered on the rivet head instead of skating off it.
- Hammer & Chisel: Useful for knocking off a stubborn head after drilling.
- Pliers: Needle-nose pliers pull the leftover shank and hold a spinning rivet still.
- Safety Gear: Always wear safety goggles; metal shavings will fly.
How To Remove Rivets with a Drill Bit
1. Prep and Locate
Before you start drilling, inspect the area. If one rivet has failed, check the surrounding ones for looseness or corrosion. If you are pulling a gutter or a specific panel, you will likely need to remove a whole row.
Clean off any dirt, rust, or paint covering the head. You need a clear view of the center indentation (the mandrel hole) to drill accurately.
2. Size Your Drill Bit
Sizing is the step that makes or breaks the job. You want a drill bit that matches the diameter of the rivet’s shaft (shank), not the wide head, so the head shears cleanly and the hole stays the right size for a replacement.
- Too small: the bit drills through the center but the head never pops off.
- Too big: you eat away the surrounding material and open the hole, so the new rivet has nothing to grip.
Match the bit to the rivet’s stated size. A standard 1/8-inch pop rivet takes roughly a 1/8-inch bit; a larger 3/16-inch rivet needs a correspondingly bigger one. Per Wicks Aircraft’s numbered-bit guide (1), a number 31 bit pairs with a rivet that measures 1/8 inch across, and a number 13 bit pairs with one that measures 3/16 inch across. When in doubt, start one size under and step up, since you can always enlarge a hole but you cannot shrink it.
3. Punch and Drill
If the rivet still has the steel pin (mandrel) stuck in the center, try knocking it through with a punch and hammer first. If the center is solid, use your center punch to make a divot right in the middle of the head. That dimple stops the bit from walking across the metal surface.
Secure your footing. If you are on a ladder, make sure it is stable. Set the bit tip into the divot, apply steady, firm pressure, and squeeze the trigger gently. Keep the speed low. A slow bit runs cooler, and that matters because too much heat can damage or work-harden the surrounding sheet and make the rest of the hole a fight.
4. Remove the Head
Drill straight in until the bit cuts through the joint between the head and the shaft. You will see the head start to spin or climb up the bit. Stop drilling the moment it separates.
If the head is loose but hung up, slip a cold chisel or an old flathead screwdriver under it and pop it off.
5. Clear the Hole
With the head gone, the rest of the rivet (the shank) usually stays lodged in the hole. Tap it out from the back with your punch and hammer. If it is stubborn, grip it with pliers and pull it free.
6. Replace the Fastener
Now that the hole is clear, you can reattach your materials. On gutters, screwdriver-friendly gutter screws are a popular upgrade because they come out easily next time. To keep the original look, set a new pop rivet with a rivet gun.
