Removing a toilet sounds like a job exclusively for a professional plumber, but it is actually one of the most straightforward DIY bathroom tasks you can tackle. Whether you are remodeling the bathroom or simply replacing a cracked bowl, the process is largely mechanical and requires just a few basic tools.
We have broken down the process into simple steps to help you pull that old commode without flooding your floor, along with tips on how to handle stubborn rusty bolts.
Key Takeaways
- Drain everything: Turn off the water supply, flush the toilet, and use a sponge to soak up every last drop from the tank and bowl.
- Disconnect and unbolt: Detach the water supply line and unscrew the floor bolts located under the caps on the toilet base.
- Lift and seal: Rock the toilet gently to break the wax seal, lift it off, and immediately plug the drain with a rag to block sewer gases.
- Measure before buying: Always measure the “rough-in” distance (wall to bolt center) before purchasing a replacement to ensure it fits.
Can I Remove a Toilet Myself?
You can absolutely remove a toilet yourself. It requires a bit of heavy lifting, but the actual mechanics are simple. If you follow the preparation steps correctly, you can have the old unit out in under an hour.
Removing the toilet is often necessary for large projects, such as installing new flooring, laying tile, or painting behind the tank.
However, you should consider calling a pro if you have a severe back injury that prevents lifting, or if the toilet flange (the connection to the floor) looks broken or severely corroded.
How to Drain a Toilet
You cannot skip this step. If you try to lift a toilet full of water, you will create a massive mess. Here is how to get the unit dry and ready for removal.
What You’ll Need
- Adjustable wrench or channel locks.
- Old towels.
- Large sponge.
- Bucket.
- Plunger.
- Rubber gloves.
1. Turn Off the Water Supply
Locate the water supply valve. It is usually on the wall or floor behind the toilet, near the bottom left side of the tank.
Rotate the handle clockwise until it stops. If you have a “quarter-turn” valve, turn the lever so it is perpendicular to the pipe. If the valve is stuck or broken, you may need to shut off the main water supply to the house briefly.
2. Flush and Sponge
Flush the toilet and hold the handle down. This allows most of the water to exit the tank. Since the water supply is off, the tank will not refill.
There will still be a small amount of water at the bottom of the tank and the bowl. Use a large sponge to soak this up and wring it out into your bucket. The goal is to get the porcelain as dry as possible to reduce weight and spills.
Top Tip
Wear rubber gloves during this process. Even though the water in the tank is clean, the water in the bowl contains bacteria and residue.
3. Force Remaining Water Out
If there is still a significant amount of water in the bowl, use a plunger to push it down the trapway. Follow up with your sponge to remove the rest.
4. Disconnect the Supply Line
Place a bucket or towel under the supply valve to catch drips. Use your adjustable wrench or pliers to unscrew the supply line coupling from the bottom of the toilet tank.
If you are replacing the toilet completely, disconnect the line from the wall valve as well; it is always a good idea to install a fresh supply line with a new toilet.
How to Remove a Toilet
Now that the water is gone, you can physically remove the fixture.
What You’ll Need
- Utility knife.
- Putty knife or scraper.
- Old rag (essential).
- Adjustable wrench.
- Heavy-duty trash bags or newspaper.
1. Remove the Mounting Bolts
Pry off the plastic caps at the base of the toilet bowl. Underneath, you will find the nuts and bolts that secure the toilet to the floor flange.
Use your adjustable wrench to unscrew the nuts. If they spin without loosening, you may need to hold the bolt in place with a second pair of pliers. Place the hardware aside.
Weight Saving Tip
If you have a two-piece toilet (where the tank is bolted to the bowl), consider removing the tank first. Unscrew the two bolts connecting the tank to the bowl and lift the tank off separately. This makes the bowl much lighter and easier to move.
2. Cut the Caulk Seal
Most toilets are sealed to the floor with a bead of silicone caulk. Use a utility knife to score the caulk around the entire base of the toilet. Ensure you cut all the way through to break the bond with the flooring.
3. Lift the Toilet
Straddle the toilet bowl and grip it by the rim. Rock it gently from side to side; this breaks the grip of the wax ring underneath.
Lift with your legs, not your back. Move the toilet away from the drain and place it on a drop cloth, newspaper, or inside a large trash bag to prevent wax residue from staining your floor.
4. Block the Sewer Gas
Once the toilet is moved, you will see an open hole in the floor. This is the sewer pipe. Immediately stuff an old rag into the hole. This prevents dangerous sewer gases (methane) from entering your home and stops tools from accidentally falling down the drain.
5. Clean the Flange
Use a putty knife to scrape the old wax ring off the floor flange. It will be sticky and messy, so have a trash bag ready. You need a clean surface to install the new wax ring later.
How to Remove Rusty Toilet Bolts
Toilet bolts are constantly exposed to humidity, urine, and water, making them prime candidates for rust. If the nuts won’t budge, try these tricks before calling a plumber.
1. Use Penetrating Oil
Spray a generous amount of penetrating oil (like PB Blaster or WD-40) on the bolts and let it sit for at least 15 minutes. This helps break the corrosion bond.
2. The Tighten-Loosen Method
Sometimes, slightly tightening the nut first can break the rust seal. Give it a quarter turn clockwise, then try to unscrew it.
3. Cut the Bolts
If they are stripped or fused solid, cutting them is often faster. You can use a hacksaw or a mini-hacksaw to saw through the bolt just below the nut. Be very careful not to damage the porcelain of the toilet or the floor.
Tips for Choosing a New Toilet
If you are removing the toilet to replace it, you need to buy the right one. Here are the critical factors to check before you head to the hardware store.
Check the “Rough-In” Measurement
This is the most important step. Measure from the wall behind the toilet to the center of the floor bolts. The standard distance is 12 inches. However, some older homes have 10-inch or 14-inch rough-ins. If you buy the wrong size, the toilet will not fit.
One-Piece vs. Two-Piece
Two-piece toilets are the most common and affordable. One-piece units are sleeker, easier to clean (no gap between tank and bowl), and reduce the risk of leaks, but they are heavier and more expensive.
Comfort Height vs. Standard
Standard height bowls are about 15 inches off the floor. Comfort height toilets (ADA compliant) are 17 to 19 inches high. The extra height makes sitting down and standing up much easier, which is great for taller adults or those with knee or back issues.
Water Efficiency
Look for the EPA WaterSense label. Modern toilets are highly efficient, using 1.28 gallons per flush (GPF) compared to older models that used 3.5 or even 5 gallons. A dual-flush model offers buttons for liquid or solid waste, saving even more water over time.
FAQs
Ready to Remodel?
Removing a toilet is a rite of passage for DIY homeowners. Once you realize it is just a matter of two bolts and a water line, it becomes much less intimidating.
Now that the old unit is out, you have a blank canvas to upgrade your flooring, paint the wall, or install a modern, water-saving commode that lowers your utility bills.










