How to Drill Into Brick: Tools, Bits & Steps

Learning how to drill into brick feels harder than it is. Brick is dense and unforgiving, so the worry is real: one wrong move and you chip the face or cook your drill motor. The fix is not muscle. It is the right bit, the right tool, and a slow start.

Mounting a TV, hanging a heavy shelf, or wiring up outdoor lights all come down to the same routine. Once you see how a masonry bit and a hammer drill actually cut brick, the wall stops looking intimidating.

This guide walks the whole job in order: picking carbide bits, dialing in your hammer drill, clearing the hole, and setting an anchor that holds. Follow the steps and you will bore clean, secure holes without damaging your home.

Key Takeaways

Here is the quick summary of how to drill into brick safely and effectively:

Use a hammer drill for holes up to 1/2 inch: Its percussive action pulverizes brick as the bit spins; for anything larger or into poured concrete, step up to a rotary hammer.
Buy carbide-tipped masonry bits: Standard steel bits dull almost instantly on fired clay. Carbide-tipped masonry bits are the only bits that bore brick cleanly.
Control the silica dust: Brick dust carries respirable crystalline silica, which OSHA caps at 50 micrograms per cubic meter over an 8-hour day. Wear an N95 and clear the hole before you set an anchor.
Start with a pilot hole: Bore a small guide hole first for accuracy, then open it to full size so the brick face does not crack.

In This Article

Brick vs. Mortar: Which to Drill?
Best Drill for Brick
What You Need
How to Drill Brick
FAQs

Is It Better to Drill Into Brick or Mortar?

This is the most common question for beginners. Should you aim for the solid red clay or the gray cement lines in between? The answer depends entirely on what you plan to hang.

Mortar is softer than brick, which makes it much easier to drill into. If you are hanging lightweight items like small picture frames or a mailbox, the mortar joints are a convenient spot. It is also easier to repair; if you make a mistake, you can patch mortar more invisibly than a hole in the face of a brick.

However, mortar has a major downside. It is prone to crumbling, especially in older homes. It does not have the structural integrity to hold heavy loads.

A simple rule of thumb settles most jobs: reserve the mortar joints for the lightest items, a small frame or a cable clip, and drill the brick itself for anything that carries real weight.

For heavy-duty items like large shelving units, televisions, or cabinets, you must drill directly into the brick. A solid brick provides a firm grip for expansion anchors and won’t degrade under weight over time. While it takes more effort to drill, the peace of mind is worth it.

What Type of Drill to Use for Brick

You cannot just grab any drill from your toolbox and expect it to work on masonry. The type of drill you choose will determine how fast the job goes (and if you ruin your drill bits).

The Hammer Drill

For 90% of homeowners, a hammer drill is the tool of choice. Unlike a standard drill that just spins, a hammer drill adds a rapid “punching” motion. This pulverizes the brick material while the bit scoops out the dust. You can use a cordless model for a few holes, but a corded hammer drill offers consistent power for larger projects. A hammer drill is the right call for masonry holes up to about 1/2 inch, which covers nearly every anchor a homeowner sets in brick, block, or mortar.

The Rotary Hammer

If you are drilling large holes (over 1/2 inch) or working with extremely hard concrete bricks, a rotary hammer (SDS drill) is the heavy-duty upgrade. Instead of a hammer drill’s rapid, shallow tapping, a rotary hammer uses a piston to compress air that drives a striker. It fires far fewer blows, roughly 5,000 a minute, but each one hits much harder, so it chews through masonry that would stall a hammer drill.

Rotary hammers take SDS bits, which slot into the chuck and lock onto grooves rather than clamping in jaws. For home use, an SDS-Plus tool (a 10 mm shank) handles anchor holes and general concrete work. SDS-Max, with an 18 mm shank, is built for heavy demolition and large-diameter holes, which is more tool than most brick jobs need.

What You Need

Before you pull the trigger, you need to gather the right gear. Safety is vital here because brick chips can fly, and the dust is hazardous.

Here is the essential safety gear you should wear:

Safety goggles: These are non-negotiable to protect your eyes from flying stone chips and dust.
N95 respirator: Brick dust carries respirable crystalline silica, which OSHA limits to 50 micrograms per cubic meter of air over an 8-hour day ⁽¹⁾. A snug N95 keeps it out of your lungs, and drilling with a vacuum nearby cuts the dust at the source.
Hearing protection: Hammer drilling is incredibly loud; protect your ears with plugs or muffs.
Work gloves: These provide grip and protect your hands from hot drill bits and sharp debris.

Once you are suited up, grab these tools to get the job done:

Hammer drill: Corded or high-voltage cordless.
Masonry drill bits: Look for carbide-tipped bits (one for a pilot hole, one for the final size).
Masking tape: For marking depth on your bit.
Hammer and center punch: To mark your starting point.
Compressed air or vacuum: To clean the hole.
Wall anchors: Plastic plugs or concrete screws (Tapcons).
Pencil: To mark your layout.

How to Drill Into Brick

1. Mark Your Spot Carefully

Measure the location for your hole and mark it with a pencil. Double-check this measurement relative to your item (shelf bracket, TV mount, etc.). Once you are sure, use a center punch (or a large nail) and a hammer to tap a small divot into the brick at your mark.

Why The Divot?

Masonry bits are blunt and tend to “walk” or wander across the surface when you start drilling. The divot gives the bit a place to sit so your hole ends up exactly where you want it.

2. Set Your Depth

Most wall anchors require a specific hole depth. If you drill too shallow, the screw won’t go in; drill too deep, and the anchor might fall through. Measure your anchor against the drill bit. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit just slightly deeper (about 1/4 inch) than the length of the anchor. This acts as your visual stop guide.

3. Drill a Pilot Hole

Start with a smaller masonry bit (around 1/8 inch or 5/32 inch). Set your drill to a low speed. If your drill has a “hammer” switch, you can actually leave it in standard “drill” mode just to get the hole started without cracking the surface. Once the bit has bitten into the brick, switch to hammer mode and increase speed. Apply firm, steady pressure, but let the tool do the work.

4. Drill the Final Hole

Switch to the drill bit that matches the diameter of your wall anchor. Place the tip into your pilot hole. Ensure you are holding the drill perfectly perpendicular to the wall (90 degrees). If you drill at an angle, the anchor won’t sit flush. Drill until your masking tape flag reaches the wall surface.

Cooling Tip

If you are drilling multiple holes or the brick is very hard, the bit will get extremely hot. Pull it out occasionally to clear dust and let it air cool. Do not dip hot carbide bits in water, as the sudden temp change can shatter the tip.

5. Clear the Dust

This is the step most people skip, and it causes anchors to fail. The hole will be full of loose dust. If you insert the anchor now, it will grip the dust instead of the brick. Use a can of compressed air (or a turkey baster) to blow the dust out. Alternatively, use a vacuum with a hose attachment to suck it out.

6. Insert the Anchor

Push your plastic anchor or sleeve into the hole. It should fit snugly. You might need to tap it gently with a hammer to get it flush with the wall. If it bends or refuses to go in, your hole is likely too narrow or clogged with dust. Run the drill bit in and out once more to clear it.

7. Fasten Your Item

Line up your fixture and drive the screw into the anchor. Hand-tighten the last few turns to avoid stripping the plastic anchor. If you are using concrete screws (like Tapcons), you drive them directly into the brick without a plastic plug, but the hole size must be precise for these to work.

FAQs

Why Do Bricks Take so Long to Drill?

Bricks drill slowly because they are kiln-fired clay, dense and hard, so the tool has to pulverize the material instead of slicing it the way it cuts wood. If a hole is crawling, the usual culprit is a dull bit, a plain rotary drill standing in for a hammer drill, or too little forward pressure to keep the hammer mechanism engaged. Swap to a fresh carbide masonry bit and lean into the tool before you blame the brick.

How Do You Drill a Hole in Brick Without Cracking It?

To drill brick without cracking it, keep the hole away from the brick’s edges, where there is the least material to resist splitting. Start a small pilot hole at low speed with the hammer function switched off, just until the bit bites a shallow divot, then flip on hammer mode and build up speed. The pilot hole spreads the stress and the slow start keeps the face from chipping out.

Can I Use a Cordless Drill for Masonry?

Yes, a cordless drill handles masonry as long as it is an 18V or 20V model with a dedicated “hammer” setting. A quality cordless hammer drill sinks anchor holes up to about 1/2 inch in brick without trouble. Step up to a corded rotary hammer only when you need larger holes or you are boring into thick poured concrete, where a battery drains fast.

Will a Wood Drill Bit Work on Brick?

No, a wood bit is ruined the moment it touches brick. Wood bits are plain steel, which is softer than fired clay, so friction overheats the tip, draws its temper, and dulls it within seconds. Reach for a masonry bit instead, since its wide carbide tip is ground to crush and grind stone rather than slice fiber.

What Is the Best Drill for Brick Walls?

The best drill for most brick walls is a corded or cordless hammer drill, and for an entry-level pick the BLACK+DECKER DR670 Hammer Drill is a lightweight, affordable option with the percussive action brick needs. If you drill masonry often, a heavier-duty cordless hammer drill from DeWalt, Makita, or Milwaukee will hold up longer under repeated use.

Can I Use a Regular Drill Instead of a Hammer Drill?

You can use a regular drill in a pinch, but only for a hole or two in soft brick and only with a fresh carbide masonry bit. Without a hammering action the bit relies on pressure alone, so the job takes much longer and builds far more heat. Hit a hard aggregate or a dense engineering brick and a standard drill usually stalls out completely.

What Size Drill Bit Do I Need for a Concrete Screw?

Match the bit to the screw diameter: a 3/16-inch concrete screw like a Tapcon uses a 5/32-inch carbide bit, and a 1/4-inch screw uses a 3/16-inch bit. Give the screw at least 1 inch of embedment, and drill the hole about 1/4 inch deeper than the screw will reach so loose dust has somewhere to fall instead of packing the threads. Concrete screws bite the brick directly, so an oversized hole leaves them spinning loose.

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