Drilling into brick can feel a lot more intimidating than drilling into drywall or wood. It is a solid, unforgiving material, and there is often a fear that you might crack the masonry or burn out your drill motor. But the truth is, with the right tools and a little patience, it is a straightforward task for any DIYer.
Whether you are mounting a TV, hanging heavy shelving, or installing outdoor lighting, the process remains the same. You just need to understand how your tools interact with the material.
If you are ready to tackle that masonry wall, this guide covers everything you need. We will help you choose the right bits, set up your hammer drill, and bore clean, secure holes without damaging your home.
Key Takeaways
- Use a hammer drill: Standard rotary drills struggle with masonry. A hammer drill uses a percussive action to pulverize the brick while it spins.
- Get carbide-tipped bits: Standard steel bits will dull instantly. You need masonry-specific drill bits with carbide tips to penetrate the surface.
- Manage the dust: Brick dust contains silica, which is harmful to your lungs. Always wear an N95 mask and clear the dust from the hole for a secure anchor fit.
- Start small: Don’t drill the full size immediately. Start with a smaller pilot hole to ensure accuracy and prevent the brick from cracking.
Is It Better to Drill Into Brick or Mortar?
This is the most common question for beginners. Should you aim for the solid red clay or the gray cement lines in between? The answer depends entirely on what you plan to hang.
Mortar is softer than brick, which makes it much easier to drill into. If you are hanging lightweight items like small picture frames or a mailbox, the mortar joints are a convenient spot. It is also easier to repair; if you make a mistake, you can patch mortar more invisibly than a hole in the face of a brick.
However, mortar has a major downside. It is prone to crumbling, especially in older homes. It does not have the structural integrity to hold heavy loads.
For heavy-duty items like large shelving units, televisions, or cabinets, you must drill directly into the brick. A solid brick provides a firm grip for expansion anchors and won’t degrade under weight over time. While it takes more effort to drill, the peace of mind is worth it.
What Type of Drill to Use for Brick
You cannot just grab any drill from your toolbox and expect it to work on masonry. The type of drill you choose will determine how fast the job goes (and if you ruin your drill bits).
The Hammer Drill
For 90% of homeowners, a hammer drill is the tool of choice. Unlike a standard drill that just spins, a hammer drill adds a rapid “punching” motion. This pulverizes the brick material while the bit scoops out the dust. You can use a cordless model for a few holes, but a corded hammer drill offers consistent power for larger projects.
The Rotary Hammer
If you are drilling large holes (over 1/2 inch) or working with extremely hard concrete bricks, a rotary hammer (SDS drill) is the heavy-duty upgrade. It uses a piston mechanism to deliver a much harder hit than a standard hammer drill. It makes drilling into masonry feel like drilling into butter.
What You Need
Before you pull the trigger, you need to gather the right gear. Safety is vital here because brick chips can fly, and the dust is hazardous.
Here is the essential safety gear you should wear:
- Safety goggles: These are non-negotiable to protect your eyes from flying stone chips and dust.
- N95 respirator: Brick dust contains crystalline silica, which is dangerous to inhale.
- Hearing protection: Hammer drilling is incredibly loud; protect your ears with plugs or muffs.
- Work gloves: These provide grip and protect your hands from hot drill bits and sharp debris.
Once you are suited up, grab these tools to get the job done:
- Hammer drill: Corded or high-voltage cordless.
- Masonry drill bits: Look for carbide-tipped bits (one for a pilot hole, one for the final size).
- Masking tape: For marking depth on your bit.
- Hammer and center punch: To mark your starting point.
- Compressed air or vacuum: To clean the hole.
- Wall anchors: Plastic plugs or concrete screws (Tapcons).
- Pencil: To mark your layout.
How to Drill Into Brick
1. Mark Your Spot Carefully
Measure the location for your hole and mark it with a pencil. Double-check this measurement relative to your item (shelf bracket, TV mount, etc.). Once you are sure, use a center punch (or a large nail) and a hammer to tap a small divot into the brick at your mark.
Why The Divot?
2. Set Your Depth
Most wall anchors require a specific hole depth. If you drill too shallow, the screw won’t go in; drill too deep, and the anchor might fall through. Measure your anchor against the drill bit. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit just slightly deeper (about 1/4 inch) than the length of the anchor. This acts as your visual stop guide.
3. Drill a Pilot Hole
Start with a smaller masonry bit (around 1/8 inch or 5/32 inch). Set your drill to a low speed. If your drill has a “hammer” switch, you can actually leave it in standard “drill” mode just to get the hole started without cracking the surface. Once the bit has bitten into the brick, switch to hammer mode and increase speed. Apply firm, steady pressure, but let the tool do the work.
4. Drill the Final Hole
Switch to the drill bit that matches the diameter of your wall anchor. Place the tip into your pilot hole. Ensure you are holding the drill perfectly perpendicular to the wall (90 degrees). If you drill at an angle, the anchor won’t sit flush. Drill until your masking tape flag reaches the wall surface.
Cooling Tip
5. Clear the Dust
This is the step most people skip, and it causes anchors to fail. The hole will be full of loose dust. If you insert the anchor now, it will grip the dust instead of the brick. Use a can of compressed air (or a turkey baster) to blow the dust out. Alternatively, use a vacuum with a hose attachment to suck it out.
6. Insert the Anchor
Push your plastic anchor or sleeve into the hole. It should fit snugly. You might need to tap it gently with a hammer to get it flush with the wall. If it bends or refuses to go in, your hole is likely too narrow or clogged with dust. Run the drill bit in and out once more to clear it.
7. Fasten Your Item
Line up your fixture and drive the screw into the anchor. Hand-tighten the last few turns to avoid stripping the plastic anchor. If you are using concrete screws (like Tapcons), you drive them directly into the brick without a plastic plug, but the hole size must be precise for these to work.
FAQs
Why Do Bricks Take So Long to Drill?
Brick is a kiln-fired ceramic, making it incredibly dense and hard. Unlike wood which fibers separate, brick must be pulverized. If drilling is taking too long, you are likely using a dull bit, a standard rotary drill instead of a hammer drill, or you aren’t applying enough pressure to engage the hammer mechanism.
How Do You Drill a Hole In Brick Without Cracking It?
To prevent cracking, avoid drilling near the very edge of the brick where structural support is weakest. Start with a small pilot hole to reduce stress on the material. Also, start the drill at a slow speed without the hammer function engaged until the bit has created a small depression; then engage the hammer mode and speed up.
Can I Use a Cordless Drill for Masonry?
Yes, modern 18V or 20V cordless drills are powerful enough for masonry, provided they have a “hammer” setting. For drilling small holes (up to 1/2 inch) in brick, a quality cordless hammer drill works perfectly. For larger holes or thick concrete, a corded rotary hammer is preferred.
Will a Wood Drill Bit Work on Brick?
No, a wood bit will be ruined almost instantly. Wood bits are made of standard steel which is softer than brick. Friction will overheat the bit, causing it to lose its temper and dull within seconds. You must use a masonry bit, which features a wide, carbide tip designed to crush stone.
What Is the Best Drill for Brick Walls?
For most DIY tasks, the BLACK+DECKER DR670 Hammer Drill is an excellent entry-level choice. It is lightweight, affordable, and provides the necessary percussive action for brick. For more frequent use, brands like DeWalt, Makita, or Milwaukee offer robust cordless hammer drills that last longer.
Can I Use a Regular Drill Instead of a Hammer Drill?
Technically, yes, but it requires patience. If you only need to drill one or two small holes in soft brick, a regular rotary drill with a fresh carbide masonry bit can work. However, it will take much longer and generate more heat. If you hit a hard spot or aggregate, a regular drill will likely fail to penetrate further.
